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  #1  
Old 12-21-2017, 03:52 PM
dwranda dwranda is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Jamestown,NY
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Default Pitot install critique please!

Hello all, wanted to get opinions if my Dynon heated pitot install looks good before I carry on. I wanted to get this done before riveting the outer lower skins. Wiring isn't done yet but that's just a matter of installing a connector on the 3 power wires. I was going to use a molex connector for that but I don't have one. I do have molex pins though. Is it OK to use the pins without the plastic connector part and use heat shrink tube over each wire to hold the pins and wires together? I thought I read that on VAF somewhere. It's not like I'm going to take that connection apart frequently.
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2017, 05:03 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
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If there's no reason *not* to use a connector housing, then you should use one (one reason being space constraints, or the like, such as for an electric elevator trim bundle). You have gobs of space here, so I'd say "do it right...use a Molex housing". Not a big fan of Molex, but given the current, it's what I used, also.

Heat shrink alone can chafe if not very properly secured, as well...and then you may have pins shorting to each other.
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  #3  
Old 12-21-2017, 06:06 PM
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Pat Hatch Pat Hatch is offline
 
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Why not just use a blue butt splice? Remember your wires will be carrying upwards of 20 amps at times, I think a butt splice is the appropriate way to go here. Leave a nice long service loop and you'll never have to cut off the butt splices.
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  #4  
Old 12-21-2017, 06:28 PM
Paul K Paul K is offline
 
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Just make sure every connection can be reached with two hands after the skins are installed! Real pain trying to tighten a fitting or connecting a plug with one hand, blind!
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2017, 07:46 PM
Captain Avgas Captain Avgas is offline
 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwranda View Post
I was going to use a molex connector for that but I don't have one. I do have molex pins though. Is it OK to use the pins without the plastic connector part and use heat shrink tube over each wire to hold the pins and wires together?
It's time for you start buying some connectors and pins. Shortly you're going to need lots of them. Buy a range of Molex connectors. They're dirt cheap.

Go to SteinAir. They stock the lot. Also get male and female pins in light and heavy gauge. And buy a SAT 1023 pin extraction tool. Believe me you'll need it.

And of course you'll need a proper crimping tool if you don't already have one. SteinAir have the lot. Go here:

http://www.steinair.com/product-category/connectors/
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  #6  
Old 12-21-2017, 08:07 PM
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catmandu catmandu is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul K View Post
Just make sure every connection can be reached with two hands after the skins are installed! Real pain trying to tighten a fitting or connecting a plug with one hand, blind!
What Paul said. Nice mounting of the aluminum tubing prior to the connection to the nylon, but think about removing the pitot. On my bought airplane, the pitot had 'service loops' in the nylon tubing as well as the wiring. I was very grateful for that when I needed to remove the heated pitot, which was at least three times in the three years before I replaced it with an AOA inclusive mast. Four mounting screws and a little twisting and out it came through the access plate hole by the bell crank.
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  #7  
Old 12-21-2017, 08:18 PM
waterboy2110 waterboy2110 is offline
 
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Not sure what kind of access you'll have once the skins are on. I only have one access cover for this area. The pitot is going to go in last so even the bends in the aluminum line are going to be a problem. The adels look nice but unless you can get both hands in there it looks like it's going to be a real problem. Also, make sure you're backing that mast up with a doubler. The kit should have included it.
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Last edited by waterboy2110 : 12-21-2017 at 08:20 PM. Reason: add info
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  #8  
Old 12-21-2017, 09:51 PM
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old pete old pete is offline
 
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all I will say is this. take your time and do it right. if not it can and will come back and bite you later on. wiring is the one thing that can cause all sorts of problems. if you take your time and do it right the first time you will have less of a chance of problems down the road. and as for butt splices I cant stand them. if your building and airplane build it right and that goes for the electrical system as well. I worked for Boeing as a aircraft test tech and fixed wiring issues all the time. it takes just a little more time to do it right. and you will not see butt splices in their wiring.
I have seen wiring done with butt splices and its a mess.
if I was buying a plane and saw the wiring that had load caring wires that had butt splices I would walk away.
do it right the first time and you will make life easier on yourself if and when you have to work on it.
just my 2 cents take it for what its worth.
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  #9  
Old 12-21-2017, 11:40 PM
sf3543 sf3543 is offline
 
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Cleco the skin on and see if you can take it apart and reassemble it again.
Make believe you are on your back on the floor and reaching up into the wing.
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  #10  
Old 12-22-2017, 03:11 AM
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f14av8r f14av8r is offline
 
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Default Max Current for heated Dynon Probe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Hatch View Post
Why not just use a blue butt splice? Remember your wires will be carrying upwards of 20 amps at times, I think a butt splice is the appropriate way to go here. Leave a nice long service loop and you'll never have to cut off the butt splices.
Pat's got a lot more experience than me but I've never seen my heated Dynon AOA/Pitot probe draw more than eight (8) amps.
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