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  #11  
Old 12-05-2017, 02:51 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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There are ~$120 2 stroke generators that would be sufficient to run a Reiff system for a while on a tank of gas. You could carry one of those and only put enough fuel in the tank to run it for the length of time you want.
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  #12  
Old 12-05-2017, 03:33 PM
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Saville Saville is offline
 
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Location: KBVY Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Prevost View Post
I have a Reiff sump heater and a remote device at home. Power on the road is the issue. I've even considered one of the goal zero power packs, but don't want to spend $1000 on it.
That really is the issue:

If I fly to Syracuse to visit my mother and stay for 2-3 days, I either have to go out to the airport a few hours before flying home to plug in the Reiff system...or leave it plugged in for a few days.
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2017, 04:04 PM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saville View Post
...or leave it plugged in for a few days.
I don't see how that could possibly hurt anything. That's what I would do.
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  #14  
Old 12-05-2017, 05:56 PM
Canadian_JOY Canadian_JOY is offline
 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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There are lots of options available. While the ember bed idea sounds crazy, it's not really all that crazy - I've used it lots of times on cars and tractors - just put the embers in a steel shovel and slide the shovel under the oil pan.

When it comes to airplanes I'm not ready to take that level of risk. A hangar neighbor uses a pair of piezo-igniting propane torches and a small battery-powered 12V fan. The fan sits at the bottom of a galvanized steel "chimney" made from home heating duct. The torches are cut into the sides of that chimney. A flexible aluminum duct comes off the top of the chimney and can be directed under the engine cowl, thus eliminating the possibility of ignition of aircraft combustibles through direct contact with the torch flame. He uses a small rechargeable battery pack to power the little computer fan that circulates the heat into the engine bay. Works a charm for truly off-airport pre-heating. (Although one does have to be comfortable with carrying propane cylinders in the airplane.)

As for me, it's a Reiff preheat system. If I really need to go off-airport I'll be carting along a tiny 2-stroke generator to make the necessary electricity. Something tells me my wife won't be wanting to go off-airport camping in temperatures where that kind of serious pre-heating will be required... ;-)
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  #15  
Old 12-06-2017, 01:17 AM
mbauer mbauer is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Nikiski, AK
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Extension cord and hair dryers. Use 3-hair dryers for preheat at my tie-down. Total cost was $33 at Walmart. Two in the inlet over the cylinders and one down below aimed at the oil pan.

If not possible with electric, I use a small dual fuel, singe burner camp stove.

To direct heat into cowling at the exhaust opening, use a 6" x4" HVAC duct reducer into a 4" dryer hose. A short piece of 6" duct around the stove clears the height of the stove and then the reducer necks down to the 4" hose. The hose is aluminum and expandable. Small light weight and portable. Holes drilled in bottom section for air flow.




A small primus fuel bottle and I have enough fuel for 3-hour warm up.

I would use caution if using propane, have had the moisture, from the burned propane, freeze the throttle cable in the past. (0 deg F and below).

Best regards,
Mike Bauer
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  #16  
Old 12-06-2017, 04:48 AM
bobnoffs bobnoffs is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: n. wi
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there are a lot of stick on pad dimensions and wattage. on my jab 3300 i have 300watts stuck on the oil pan and 50 watts on the top of the block. 3 hrs is always enough in the temp i will fly in [15 f. ] .oil is always around 100 deg and heads are 70 deg. if you were to leave it on constantly temps will reach a max when engine gives off heat as fast as it absorbed. i think mine is around 70 deg above ambient. the only reason i have 4 stick ons is because i was experimenting with my preheating.i plug the intake vents and drape an insulated pad over the cowl.safety i think is much greater with these pads compared to a milkhouse heater that gets red hot and has a motor that can jam/fail etc.
i have used these stick ons in many auto applications and never had one fail. my last car still had a working pad on it with 300,000 miles. and that was on a curved oil pan.
350 watts is peanuts for an extension cord and a light one [16 ga] is fine for quite a distance.
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  #17  
Old 12-06-2017, 05:08 AM
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Plummit Plummit is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bret View Post
Wait....is this the same theory that you can throw a lit cigarette into a bowl of gasoline and it will not ignite?.......most of the time?
It's not a theory, it's a fact.

-Marc
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  #18  
Old 12-06-2017, 06:32 AM
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Shark Shark is offline
 
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Location: Lake Elmo MN
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Default Tanis

I have a Tanis Heater and they tell me to leave it plugged in 24-7
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  #19  
Old 12-06-2017, 06:44 AM
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robertahegy robertahegy is offline
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I had a Tanis heater on my 7A. I think they are the best way to go. Heats pan and cylinder heads.

Roberta
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  #20  
Old 12-06-2017, 07:04 AM
Pittsartist Pittsartist is offline
 
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Location: UK
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Wolverine Sump heater pad - the Orange ones, about £80 on UK ebay. (But DONT trim them or it will destroy it .... ask me how I know !)

Then I have a "Cellphone" Mains socket adapter, you send an SMS to the cell number and it switches on for an hour. At 40f ambient I usually see about 70f oil temp at startup after it's been on for an hour.

There's also Wifi sockets which are even cheaper (£20) but of course need a wifi connection. I've not mentioned what types as I'm in the UK and our outlets are different here.
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