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02-22-2007, 01:32 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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How to use big rivet to seal fuel tank tooling holes?
Hi - a fellow builder has given me a few AN470AD6-7 "big" rivets to use to close up the tooling holes in the outboard fuel tank ribs.
Even though these are the shortest 3/16" rivets that Vans sells, I think they will be way too long to use as-is. The fuel tank ribs are 0.032 thick. If I understand rivets correctly, I need to have 1.5D protruding prior to setting the rivet, or 0.281. Adding that to the rib thickness gives 0.313 which is about a -5 rivet.
My question is - what is the easiest way to remove 1/8 inch from a rivet without a rivet cutter (I'm too cheap to buy one for only 2 rivets). I have only a very few, so I can't experiment too much.
Thanks!
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Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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02-22-2007, 01:46 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 525
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Hacksaw and vice
I think it took probably less than 30 seconds per rivet with a hacksaw. Too obvious, i know!

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#40533 RV-10 Builder and CFI
1/2006 Started build
10/19/2011 First flight
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02-22-2007, 01:48 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KASH
Posts: 496
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I used longer AD6 rivets as well. I wasn't too worried about getting the length exactly right, since the rivet isn't doing anything structural - just plugging the tooling hole. Plus, it will (or should, at least) get covered by Proseal.
If the rivet is too long to set at all, you could use a disk sander or even a file to shorten them. Just be careful if you use the sander, those rivets get hot!
Hope this helps...
Dave
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Dave Setser
RV-7 airworthy!
Nashua, NH (KASH)
Putting the "slow" in slow-build since 2004!
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02-22-2007, 01:52 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Canby, Oregon
Posts: 1,786
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I did it the easy way.
This is not structural, so I used a #4 rivet and prosealed it good. It is not going to fall out even though it didn't fit the hole.
Kent
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Kent Byerley
RV9A N94KJ - IO320, CS, tipup
AFS 3500, TT AP, FLYING....
Canby, Or
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02-22-2007, 01:56 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion IA
Posts: 1,095
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Thermos
If the rivet is too long to set at all, you could use a disk sander or even a file to shorten them. Just be careful if you use the sander, those rivets get hot!
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That was my first plan, but I was afraid of the heat changing the temper of the rivet, causing it to become unsqueezable.
The other poster is right, I "forgot" these aren't structural, so maybe I can squeeze them at the longer length.
Love these forums - three ideas in just a few minutes!
__________________
Dave Gribble VAF #232
Building RV-9A N149DG (slider, IO-320, IFR)
Restored and Flying Beech Super III N3698Q
Marion IA
Struggling with fiberglass
There is no sport equal to that which aviators enjoy while being carried through the air on great white wings." Wilbur Wright, 1905
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02-22-2007, 02:29 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,110
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Is there a reason not to used a sealed blind rivet?
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John Coloccia
www.ballofshame.com
Former builder, but still lurking 'cause you're a pretty cool bunch...
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02-22-2007, 03:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by IowaRV9Dreamer
That was my first plan, but I was afraid of the heat changing the temper of the rivet, causing it to become unsqueezable.
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I don't think they become unsqueezable--actually they squeeze (or buck) a little too easily causing them to flatten out too much if you hit them too long. I haven't heard anything about the heat causing any long-term strength problems though if you grind off a little before bucking it. Anyone else know anything about this?
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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02-22-2007, 03:47 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fort Myers, FL
Posts: 483
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Rivets work harden, which means that if you heat them up, it becomes very difficult to set them. I'd try with a longer one first, as long as you plug the hole, you're done.
Pop rivets would work just fine and it won't be visible once it's on the airplane.
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02-22-2007, 04:20 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,122
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"Work hardening" is not caused by heat, it's caused by rearrangement of the micro-crystalline structure of the metal due to mechanical deformation. Heating it may affect the temper, but it won't "work harden" the metal.
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Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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02-22-2007, 07:36 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: south carolina
Posts: 1,111
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put it in
cut it with a hack saw, put it in the hole, and smack it a time or two, enough to put some set in it and cover it with proseal. at least thats how i did it. 
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William Weesner/ still kicking.
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