Tank repair Q.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by rv7charlie

Flamemaster makes a one part pourable sealant that's compatible with their regular 'proseal'. It can be drawn into a flexible plastic tube & directed where you need it. With care, you can run the entire top or bottom seam with it, from one end of the tank.

That almost sounds like the white slosh that I had previously spent many stinky days using MEK to remove. That was done before the rear baffle was installed.

[rv7charlie]

Nope. It's red.

Seriously, the slosh issue is another discussion, and more complicated than the slosh itself, too.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by rv7charlie

Nope. It's red.

Seriously, the slosh issue is another discussion, and more complicated than the slosh itself, too.

If it's this one, it looks to be more of a top coat (and an adhesive if you can separate the parts) than a product that can make a corner fillet.

http://flamemaster.com/wp-content/up.../07/CS3600.pdf

The data sheet mentions a 1 mill thickness.

[RV6_flyer]

Originally Posted by agirard7a

Gil. I have both of my tanks out repairing for leaks.
A huge help is to get ahold of the lower viscosity proseal or figure
Out a way to thin out the thicker product. Lower viscosity will find its way
To a better seal for existing built tanks. If you figure a way to thin it out please let us know. In my opinion it's a much better way to go. I was able to apply a bit of air pressure to blow it into the repair area.

The lower viscosity is the A instead of the B in the spec number. Aircraft Spruce has it.

[rv7charlie]

Originally Posted by az_gila

If it's this one, it looks to be more of a top coat (and an adhesive if you can separate the parts) than a product that can make a corner fillet.

http://flamemaster.com/wp-content/up.../07/CS3600.pdf

The data sheet mentions a 1 mill thickness.

That's the stuff. You're right about what the data sheet says, but it's also what they recommended in a phone conversation when I described improperly sealed seams (top & bottom edges of the back baffle) that had been sealed with their polysulfide product. I suspect that the last sentence of the 1st paragraph covers that:
"CS 3600 is also used as a top coat for polysulfide sealants in
integral fuel tanks for aircraft."

I can't think of a reason to topcoat polysulfide inside a fuel tank, unless you're fixing a leak.

Charlie

[Patcullen550]

When I removed white slosh I replaced with pro seal I used gloved finger ,Popsicle stick, and or ziplock bag with small hole in it to place pro seal where I needed

[Berchmans]

I had a couple leaks develop as well. Used my Mark 1 Finger with disposable gloves...You can feel the application and check with mirror. No leaks and really no mess. You can get like 300 gloves for $10 buck...

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by Berchmans

I had a couple leaks develop as well. Used my Mark 1 Finger with disposable gloves...You can feel the application and check with mirror. No leaks and really no mess. You can get like 300 gloves for $10 buck...

Yes... I'm moving that way. I think I'll dispense it with the bent nozzle on the Semco gun, and then 'finger' it into place.

Off to buy new gloves tonight, the ones in the old box sort of rotted in the AZ heat.

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by az_gila

Yes... I'm moving that way. I think I'll dispense it with the bent nozzle on the Semco gun, and then 'finger' it into place.

Off to buy new gloves tonight, the ones in the old box sort of rotted in the AZ heat.

Gil - MEK or Acetone is a recommended cleaner for Proseal. Sparingly, a small amount of MEK on the glove finger allowed me to form a nice filet without the Proseal "gumming up" and sticking to the glove. A very slight film of MEK seems to be all it takes. I did this for my tank build, not a repair, but same principles apply.

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by JonJay

Gil - MEK or Acetone is a recommended cleaner for Proseal. Sparingly, a small amount of MEK on the glove finger allowed me to form a nice filet without the Proseal "gumming up" and sticking to the glove. A very slight film of MEK seems to be all it takes. I did this for my tank build, not a repair, but same principles apply.

I'll try that. I even have an old gallon of MEK I bought before it became unavailable and only "MEK Substitute" is now sold.

I also have a remote air breathing system that helps with the yucky smells...