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08-31-2017, 09:16 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 804
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Quiet Cabin
My non-insulated RV-4 is much noisier than I'd prefer. What is the least weight simplest and effective way to improve it? Bubble wrap, foam insulation, carpet? Wondering what others have done, other posts, articles or ways to make it flyable. Objective results would be best (db lost per lb added)
-Bruce
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Bruce Meacham
Building RV-4A 18ZM
Built/Own RV-4 254MM
First RV RV-3 3456B
VAF annual donation on autopay
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08-31-2017, 09:17 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,861
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A good ANR headset.
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Todd "I drink and know things" Stovall
PP ASEL-IA
RV-10 N728TT - Flying!
WAR EAGLE!
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08-31-2017, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Tuttle, Oklahoma
Posts: 2,563
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There is a great deal of discussion on this topic from many years of past posts. Search is your friend on such a topic ( 3rd from the right on the blue ribbon just above this thread). Here is a search I did on "cabin insulation":
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...rchid=32789943
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08-31-2017, 09:29 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 1,635
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Just adding Carpet made a significant difference to one of our local 7 guys .. he put a layer of foam and then carpet on the floor and in the luggage department .. didn't bother with the side panels it made such a difference.
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RV-14A #140376
N196 (Flying)
2019 Bronze Lindy
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08-31-2017, 09:35 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Union County, NJ
Posts: 929
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ANR headset +1
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RV6A: N6389-->N456RJ - Avionics Upgrade & Restoration COMPLETE & Flying
WTB RV4/8?- Looking for a 4 or 8 that needs some love and TLC. PM me if you have one!
Donations Paid- Thank you VAF!
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08-31-2017, 09:43 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auburntsts
A good ANR headset.
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That was my original plan as well, but what I failed to consider was that every time I keyed my mic, all that cockpit noise was being broadcast to ATC. The noise was so loud that they could barely understand me. Here's how I solved that problem: 1. I added sound insulation to the cabin and improved the canopy seals.
2. I added a full 1" of foam insulation to the cabin side of the firewall.
3. I added foam/rubber insulation to the floor.
4. I bought a Sigtronics S-20 headset with a noise-cancelling mic
5. I added a Mic Muff over the microphone
6. I added down turns on my exhaust pipes
7. I adjusted my Icom A-210 as follows: INCOM LVL = 051
MIC 1 GAIN = 10
MIC SQL = 026
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(2020 dues paid)
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08-31-2017, 09:52 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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By far, the most effective thing I did on the 1st -4 I owned was to seal up air leaks.
Sealing leaks can be a lot of work, but should add minimal weight and minimal expense.
After that, just a good set of headphones; either noise cancelling or 'plug' type like QT Halos. If ear plugs don't bother you, the passive in-ear models can have noise reduction as good as, or better than the active over-ear models. And no batteries, and no head vise, and no weight on your head.
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08-31-2017, 10:10 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopercod
2. I added a full 1" of foam insulation to the cabin side of the firewall.
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Careful here, with a fw fwd fire the foam could offgas/melt into stuff you don't want in your lungs. There is a thread on this on the forum, some of the foam insulation breaks down into seriously nasty stuff when heated.
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RV-9A - started 01/2015, completed 07/19/2018, 500hrs 03/14/2020
RV-10 - started 04/2020
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08-31-2017, 11:37 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfb
...the foam could offgas/melt into stuff you don't want in your lungs.
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I used Super Soundproofing Foam from ACS which supposedly "has fire retardant qualities and meets FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1". I have no illusions that the stuff won't burn and give off toxic fumes, but I decided that I would rather take my chances. I did install a temperature sensor in my lower cowling so I would (might) know if there was a fire up front. I also installed a spray header in the engine compartment leading back to a receptacle on my panel that my Halon fire extinguisher will fit into.
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(2020 dues paid)
Last edited by snopercod : 09-04-2017 at 06:50 PM.
Reason: corrected allusion to illusion so RV7A Flyer doesn't bust me.
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08-31-2017, 12:01 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 823
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Sound Reducing
Bruce
There are sometimes presentations at fly-ins from sound engineers like Oshkosh and others. Their content reduced to the executive summary is:
1. Seal gaps. Gaps is the number 1 source of sound getting into the cabin.
2. Stop vibrations. This is number 2. Use foam with an aluminum foil on one side to add a little weight which changes the natural frequency of aluminum skin so it doesn't vibrate in the wind as much. This is damping. (Note there is no such word as dampening). Sound engrs say, "Dampen vibrations).
3. Absorb noise. This is the least effective, but the most attempted. Just use thick foam or other sound absorbing material. Carpet is an absorb-er.
__________________
Steve Lynn
RV-7A
Flying Phase I
Anacortes, WA
www.mykitlog.com/sglynn
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