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  #1  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:09 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Default Prepping for paint is heartbreaking ...

Taking scotchbrite to those perfect aluminum panels you've worked so hard to protect .. sad, sad day ..

(prepping cabin for paint)
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  #2  
Old 08-31-2017, 02:22 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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I found my loop - hook DA sander holds the scotch brite pads very well and speeds up the process. They work great for smoothing out fiberglass too.

Have fun!
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  #3  
Old 08-31-2017, 02:28 PM
jibby212 jibby212 is offline
 
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I did the same thing but it will no longer hold sand paper when your done, my experience anyway.
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  #4  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkervaski View Post
Taking scotchbrite to those perfect aluminum panels you've worked so hard to protect .. sad, sad day ..

(prepping cabin for paint)
I never understood why people spend so much time with a straight edge and soldering gun. Unless you are going to polish.
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  #5  
Old 08-31-2017, 09:59 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jibby212 View Post
I did the same thing but it will no longer hold sand paper when your done, my experience anyway.
A new bottom for a Dewalt is $12 at HD. Worth it. I took my old one, cleaned it off and now can use it for pressure glue sanding discs.
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  #6  
Old 09-01-2017, 04:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentlik View Post
I never understood why people spend so much time with a straight edge and soldering gun. Unless you are going to polish.
Protection helps. My skins don't look perfect but leaving the plastic on helps with the minor hangar rash. It'll still have to get scuffed for paint but the less blending I have to do to remove minor damage, the better.
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2017, 05:12 AM
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Don't forget you want to primer or whatever you are using as soon as possible after scuffing before the aluminum starts to oxidize, paint stuff don't stick well to oxidized aluminum
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2017, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bret View Post
Don't forget you want to primer or whatever you are using as soon as possible after scuffing before the aluminum starts to oxidize, paint stuff don't stick well to oxidized aluminum
Good practice, but that is partly what the etching process does, rids the skin of oxidation. It may be more critical that you top coat within a specified time depending on the systems you are using. Leaving primer on for extended periods may require you to go back and rough up again before your top coat.
Ideally, your paint prep and painting all occur together within a few days for most systems.
I wouldn't waste time prepping until you're ready to go: prep/prime/paint.
It is a LOT of work.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2017, 09:48 AM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
Ideally, your paint prep and painting all occur together within a few days for most systems.
this is good advice. increases your chance for good bonding.
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  #10  
Old 09-01-2017, 08:19 PM
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ColoCardinal ColoCardinal is offline
 
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Thumbs down When to paint

In a much larger scope of when to paint. Do any of you know if any DARs have objected to the plane being painted prior to the inspection? Wondering if they want to see every rivet.
Tried to contact a couple of tech counselors and would have asked them but none return my calls.
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