Replacing Engine Fuel Pump

[Captain Avgas]

I've added a URL to my post #25. It leads to the NTSB report on the 2008 RV fatality caused by a faulty fuel pump installation(by the builder).

[erich weaver]

I used Permatex. I would try loosening, but not removing the bolts to apply it rather than go through the hassel of re-installation. However, if its not leaking now, leave it alone. No need to ask for trouble.

erich

[uk_figs]

so reference my earlier post, what are the symptoms of incorrect install and can the electric pump pump through a failed engine driven pump on a carburated engine? The NTSB report implies that the restart with the electric pump was a problem because the engine was fuel injected.
My pump supplies 4.5 psi and has so far run for 65 hours without a hitch, can I assume it was installed correctly (probably by luck as I did not have the problems referenced here)

[Experimental Chaos]

Originally Posted by Captain Avgas

I've added a URL to my post #25. It leads to the NTSB report on the 2008 RV fatality caused by a faulty fuel pump installation(by the builder).

Yes please go to the link in post 25, this happened in my backyard (so to speak) very chilling, I read the whole tread to make sure someone had included this information.

[db8]

I removed the fuel pump to put an air cooler housing (with an adapter to run cool plenum air to it) for cooling purposes. This is on an engine that has not been run yet. When I was putting it back on, I too noticed it was a major PITA to get those two bolts in, so I just got the next smallest length (and put no sealant on them). I noticed nothing in this thread about smaller length bolts (probably because it is not even a correct consideration). Is it safe to assume that I need to put those original bolts in? I think the ones I put in are 1/8", and no more than 1/4" in length shorter than the original. It seemed like there was plenty of grip length. Thanks. Dave

[AlexPeterson]

Originally Posted by db8

I removed the fuel pump to put an air cooler housing (with an adapter to run cool plenum air to it) for cooling purposes. This is on an engine that has not been run yet. When I was putting it back on, I too noticed it was a major PITA to get those two bolts in, so I just got the next smallest length (and put no sealant on them). I noticed nothing in this thread about smaller length bolts (probably because it is not even a consideration). Is it safe to assume that I need to put those original bolts in? I think the ones I put in are 1/8", and no more than 1/4" in length shorter than the original. It seemed like there was plenty of grip length. Thanks. Dave

Someone, probably many decades ago dead of old age, chose the length knowing that a shorter one could more easily be installed. I'd stick with the original obnoxious length. Besides, then you have a story to tell once you fight your way through it.

[Scott Hersha]

The problem you describe was also common on auto engines (prior to 1986) when they had engine driven fuel pumps.

I'm wondering, because I had to replace my engine driven fuel pump on my RV-6, and not looking forward to doing it again on my RV-8 - is there anything inside the accessory case that would run amuck if you didn't have and engine driven fuel pump installed? Why not get or make a plate to cover the opening and just not have to deal with the cantankerous, poorly designed thing at all? I'm sure there are plenty of full-time automotive fuel pumps (electric of course) that will work just fine. Might want to power it alternatively from a back-up battery system, but it might be better....

Scott
RV-8 FB

[frankh]

Originally Posted by Scott Hersha

I'm wondering, because I had to replace my engine driven fuel pump on my RV-6, and not looking forward to doing it again on my RV-8 - is there anything inside the accessory case that would run amuck if you didn't have and engine driven fuel pump installed? Why not get or make a plate to cover the opening and just not have to deal with the cantankerous, poorly designed thing at all? I'm sure there are plenty of full-time automotive fuel pumps (electric of course) that will work just fine. Might want to power it alternatively from a back-up battery system, but it might be better....

Scott
RV-8 FB

If you want such a system see here http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...light=wingroot ..Vapour lock is virtually impossible with a properly designed electric fuel pump system


Frank

[JSD755]

I am a new RV8 owner and this is my first post. I want to say thanks for all the valuable insight that is posted here, it has saved me a huge amount of frustration trying to reinvent the wheel. I recently had to replace the engine driven fuel pump (0 360). What a miserable job, poor access and a masterpiece of poor design.
I want to single out Kcameron for thanks for the tip on using waxed lacing cord to hold the drive shaft up while starting the hex bolts, it worked when all the other tricks failed. If you ever need to do this nasty job try this tip first and save time and hide on your arms.

Many thanks John Deaton

[Frank Smidler]

What indication did you have that the mechanical fuel pump needed replacement? I have an O360 that has the fuel pressure drop below 1 psi during climb out. Am I pushing my luck if I don't replace it immediately?

Thanks