d sub connector parts

[TShort]

I'm troubleshooting / attempting a patch for an autopilot issue in the new -10.

I've made a temporary cable that splits the output from the 430W to the EFIS and the autopilot. Unfortunately, the current wiring was not done well, and there is little to no slack in the existing cable. The current connector is secured with screws into the back of the radio stack, and appears to have small nuts on the back of it:



The connector I used for the cable is the same brand, but doesn't have any nuts or threads:



Any ideas on what I can use to secure the new d-sub connector into the back of the radio stack? Is there a d-sub connector that has the threaded inserts built in?

Thanks in advance.

[Mike S]

Mounting fasteners are usually with the back shell.

[BobTurner]

Just a word of caution here. Some of the connectors on the back of the 430 are standard d-sub pins; some use "high density" d-sub pins. Make sure you have the right ones. These connectors have to be fastened to the back of the rack just right, so they mate up with the 430's pins when it's inserted. If you're off by just a tiny fraction of an inch you'll bend the pins.
Bottom line: You need to use the exact same assembly as the original connector, or risk trouble.

[TShort]

Originally Posted by Mike S

Mounting fasteners are usually with the back shell.

Yup. But the connector in there now doesn't have a shell, and there is limited space. I'm trying to fit in something similar to what's there now.

Originally Posted by BobTurner

Just a word of caution here. Some of the connectors on the back of the 430 are standard d-sub pins; some use "high density" d-sub pins. Make sure you have the right ones. These connectors have to be fastened to the back of the rack just right, so they mate up with the 430's pins when it's inserted. If you're off by just a tiny fraction of an inch you'll bend the pins.
Bottom line: You need to use the exact same assembly as the original connector, or risk trouble.

I've got the exact same mil-spec 78 pin high density connector, so good to go there.

This is a temporary fix, and I realize it isn't ideal. I want to fly the plane for 6-8 months and plan to gut and redo the panel this winter.

Perhaps a back shell is the best approach (if I can fit it in) - any suggestions?

Thanks

[wilddog]

There are back shells where the wires exit from one end instead of the back, would that fit?

[TShort]

After an exhaustive search of the internet, I came up with this:



http://www.peigenesis.com/en/shop/pa...H/1373027.html

I could make something similar, but for 2 bucks (and the company is here in Indiana, so shipping is quick) this should do the trick.

[rapid_ascent]

Thomas,

Typically the "jackscrews" come with the backshells for the connectors. The backshell has a strain relief for the wires and it provides the attachment hardware. In a bind you can use short 4-40 screws but this is not a suggested method. Go to mouser.com or digi-key.com and search for backshell.

[TShort]

Ray-

Thanks for the response.

The backshells I've seen seem to accommodate jackscrews that attach the d-sub connector to the device from the back (wire) side; this particular connector is attached with screws from inside the radio tray, on the "pin" side (specifically the P1001 below).



I'm learning a lot of this as I go, so if I am missing something with respect to the backshells let me know. I've not found one that would accept the screws from the front as in the image above.

Thanks again,

[rapid_ascent]

I have no knowledge of the exact mounting configuration that you are referring to, just general electronics experience. There are a couple of general solutions. Garmin I'm sure has the "correct" solution.

There are d connectors which have built-in female jackscrews. I'm not sure if these are available with insertable contacts but I think they are. These could then be used with a backshell for wire strain relief and then not use the standard included hardware. I prefer the Amp (now tyco or te) brand connectors for high quality.

[Pdtofly]

Tom,

You have one part that you need. The shell that you need is Garmin Part no. 330-00220-50 and 330-00185-78. There is also a clamp that mounts on the first part that will hold your wire bundle in place. A must to prevent a wire from breaking by vibration. The part you showed is Garmin Part no. 125-00045-00.

Do a search or call you local Garmin dealer, or SteinAir and see if they might have one laying around. You also will need the two screws to hold in place. The whole kit would cost you an arm and leg, and maybe your first born.

If you send me an email at hr2plt@yahoo.com, I will send you a picture of all the part numbers you would need.

Good luck.

Brian