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01-31-2007, 02:11 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
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Ignition wire insulators on rear baffle
Does anyone remember if the plastic wire insulators on the rear baffle came with the baffle kit? Or, where do they come from. I don't know if I had them and can't find them or what. If you have two that you don't need, I sure could use them. They should be easily dropped in an envelope.
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CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
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01-31-2007, 02:27 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
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Ok, I'll answer my own question. Ignition baffle seals don't come with any kit. It looks like the nice ones can be sourced from ACS:
here
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CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
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01-31-2007, 02:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
Posts: 487
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Yep, that's where I got mine. Only problem with mine is that the baffles are painted red and the insulators are kind of a baby blue. But hey, they work.
Karl
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RV-8 #80240 SOLD
1999 BMW R1100RS
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01-31-2007, 03:47 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa barbara, CA
Posts: 1,681
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Is there any advantage to using these over a simple hole in the baffle with rubber grommet for each spark plug lead?
erich weaver
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01-31-2007, 03:56 PM
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VAF Moderator / Line Boy
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,247
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by erich weaver
Is there any advantage to using these over a simple hole in the baffle with rubber grommet for each spark plug lead?
erich weaver
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Erich,
The problem with a grommet is that if the hole in the grommet seals nicely on the plug wire, you'll never get it over the end of the wire, unless you split the grommet, and then use lots of RTV to keep it in place and sealed. The diamond-shaped units are two-piece, so they go on real nice. My old Grumman had grommets, and they got ugly real quick.
Paul
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Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
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01-31-2007, 04:21 PM
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Moderator/Tech Counselor
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: East Troy, WI
Posts: 1,983
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Mine came with the engine from Lycoming. I got some amber colored ones that worked very nicely. They were a two piece interlocking affair.
Roberta
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Roberta Hegy
Built/Flew an RV-7A
Air Troy Estates, East Troy, WI
Ford Expedition and TRICE "Q"
Built Glen L "ZIP" Classic Outboard Runabout and Super Spartan Hydroplane
Glen L Torpedo
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01-31-2007, 04:52 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa barbara, CA
Posts: 1,681
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rubber grommets?
Paul:
Well, I have small rubber grommets that fit nice and tight without any splitting necessary. I think maybe what you are trying to tell me is that thd grommets wont go on the leads AFTER you have installed the hardware at the ends that connect to the plugs and the electronic ignition modules???
If thats the case, then I think my only concern is that with my rubber grommets, I cant completely remove a spark plug lead without either removing the baffle section with it, or alternatively, removing (and ruining) the hardware at the ends of the leads. These are both undesirable, but then again, I dont really forsee changing my spark plug leads out. Should I? Couldnt be too much work cutting a bigger hole in my baffles and using the ACS insulators, so I would just as soon do this now if its worthwhile.
Hope you can follow this ok.
thanks
erich
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01-31-2007, 05:13 PM
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VAF Moderator / Line Boy
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,247
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by erich weaver
Paul:
Well, I have small rubber grommets that fit nice and tight without any splitting necessary. I think maybe what you are trying to tell me is that thd grommets wont go on the leads AFTER you have installed the hardware at the ends that connect to the plugs and the electronic ignition modules???
If thats the case, then I think my only concern is that with my rubber grommets, I cant completely remove a spark plug lead without either removing the baffle section with it, or alternatively, removing (and ruining) the hardware at the ends of the leads. These are both undesirable, but then again, I dont really forsee changing my spark plug leads out. Should I? Couldnt be too much work cutting a bigger hole in my baffles and using the ACS insulators, so I would just as soon do this now if its worthwhile.
Hope you can follow this ok.
thanks
erich
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We are exactly on the same page Erich - if you have the grommets on already, then my comments about not getting them past the end hardware is irrelevant. As long as you can get the grommets in the holes in the baffles, you should be fine. As far as having to change harneses....I think I went through two sets of Mags on my Grumman in the life of the engine, and when I changed Mags, I put on a new harness because it came free in a one-time-good-deal with the new mags. I've never had to change a harness because of a problem with one. Of course, YMMV!
Good luck,
Paul
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Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
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04-16-2007, 08:25 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 271
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I looked at the wire seals at ACS that were mentioned and would like to use them, but the only size they list are 5 MM. My plug wires measure 7.5 MM.
Will the plug wires compress enough to fit in the seals or can the seals be drilled out to 7 MM or am I missing something (as usual)?
Just another puzzlement!
Thanks, Larry
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04-16-2007, 08:54 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,152
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I reamed mine just a bit for a correct fit on larger plug wires.
__________________
Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
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