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03-15-2017, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: White City, Oregon
Posts: 24
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Rivet direction
Ok, I'm being lazy. I just started building a RV9A and the learning curve! I'm ready to rivet the nose rib on the vertical stabilizer to the front spar and there is nothing on the plans that tells you which side the manufactured head or the shop head should be. I recall reading something somewhere but rather than rereading everything I would be lazy and ask the experienced people here. Is there a rule that if not specified the manufactured head is on the front of the plane?
Thank you,
Darrell
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Donated for 2017
Building RV 9A
Southern Oregon
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03-15-2017, 01:12 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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No such rule for rivets. The primary criteria I use is (a) whichever direction is easiest to shoot, (b) factory head on the thinner material side if possible to help minimize any skin deformation, (c) put the factory head on the side that will be easiest to drill out in event you mess it up.
BTW-it sounds like a basic build class would be well worth your the money and time you'll be putting into this project. Will probably save you substantial money in the long run.
Good luck.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
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03-15-2017, 01:21 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 682
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Darrell,
In general, one should strive to place the manufactured head of the rivet on the thinnest material being riveted. That is not always possible of course, but that is what you want to strive for.
Another tip when squeezing rivets that will help keep the two surfaces tight is to cut off a little vinyl tubing a little longer than the shank of the rivet when in place ... slip the piece of vinyl over the shank of the rivet being squeezed. The idea here is ... as the rivet squeezer sets begins to come together, the vinyl tubing will be compressed first thus keeping pressure on pieces being riveted prior to the rivet beginning to set. The result is nice tight rivet joints even on ones where it was necessary to have the shop head formed on the thinner material. The piece of vinyl can be used many times before a new piece is needed.
Happy building,
__________________
John
www.dogaviation.com
RV-12 Wings, Empennage, Fuselage, Finishing, Avionics and Powerplant kits all completed
Now Flying!!
Donation paid until September 2021
Last edited by John-G : 03-15-2017 at 01:26 PM.
Reason: clarification
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03-15-2017, 01:27 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,861
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Unless the plans specify a direction, which they do at times, it really doesn't matter. Having said that I generally followed the advice that Steve and John posted above.
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Todd "I drink and know things" Stovall
PP ASEL-IA
RV-10 N728TT - Flying!
WAR EAGLE!
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03-15-2017, 02:06 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: St. Paul, MN.
Posts: 4,792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dareha
rather than rereading everything I would be lazy
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This should be the first thing everyone building an airplane should learn, actually.
That "lazy" stuff will bite you in the 6 and cost you a fortune.
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03-15-2017, 02:11 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: White City, Oregon
Posts: 24
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Lazy
And that's why I asked the experts so it wouldn't bite me.
Thank you for those people with helpful advice.
Darrell
__________________
Donated for 2017
Building RV 9A
Southern Oregon
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03-15-2017, 02:29 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,246
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If you don't have the PDF version of the plans (now supplied on a USB drive, I guess), I recommend you buy it. If you're looking for a specific bit of information that you don't recall from reading the plans and construction manual, it's easy to search for text that may answer your question. I can't speak for the RV-9, but it took me about a minute to open the PDF and search for "manufactured head" to find the reference in the RV-7 plans that says, "Place the manufactured head of the rivet on the rib flange (side with thinnest material), to prevent distorting the parts."
Even less time with the VAF search function will turn up over a dozen instances of the same answer given to the same question.
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Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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03-15-2017, 03:38 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: North Fort Myers
Posts: 247
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Another tip when squeezing rivets that will help keep the two surfaces tight is to cut off a little vinyl tubing a little longer than the shank of the rivet when in place ... slip the piece of vinyl over the shank of the rivet being squeezed. The idea here is ... as the rivet squeezer sets begins to come together, the vinyl tubing will be compressed first thus keeping pressure on pieces being riveted prior to the rivet beginning to set. The result is nice tight rivet joints even on ones where it was necessary to have the shop head formed on the thinner material. The piece of vinyl can be used many times before a new piece is needed.
I like this idea, cant picture it, any pics or vids of this.. I am cranking up my build next week
( waiting on tools).. Thanks
__________________
Neal Trombley
SW Florida
EAA 66
N517NC ( reserved)
Dues Paid
NOV 2016
July 2017
Dec 2017
Last edited by Neal Trombley : 03-15-2017 at 03:45 PM.
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03-15-2017, 04:09 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 682
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Quote:
I like this idea, cant picture it, any pics or vids of this.. I am cranking up my build next week
( waiting on tools).. Thanks
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Neal - I have a couple of photos of using a vinyl tube when squeezing rivets on my builder's Blog at the following links:
http://www.dogaviation.com/2012/12/l...completed.html
http://www.dogaviation.com/2012/06/v...-assembly.html
Hope the photos help.
__________________
John
www.dogaviation.com
RV-12 Wings, Empennage, Fuselage, Finishing, Avionics and Powerplant kits all completed
Now Flying!!
Donation paid until September 2021
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03-15-2017, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 266
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Thanks John. As they say a picture something something...
Seriously. That makes perfect sense now.
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