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  #1  
Old 03-12-2017, 06:03 PM
Hornet2008 Hornet2008 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NSW Australia
Posts: 298
Default Slider Rails

The system of fixing the slider rails to the fuse is a difficult chore to say the least. Searched the forums and noted a strip of Al with nut plates, great idea. Is there any reason the slider rail can't be pull riveted say with SS pulled rivets? Just a thought as they could be drilled out if the need be and would be just as strong as #8 screw. Be heaps easier than the screws. I went the bent spanner route, only comment I would make is to locate the nut in the hole before inserting the screw. BTW I used tape to hold the nut in the 9mm spanner.
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RV-9 "Cloud tinnie"
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Flying Phase 2
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2017, 10:30 PM
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gyoung gyoung is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Spring, TX
Posts: 233
Default

The rail screws are loaded in tension so pulled rivets of any kind would not be a good idea. I used the strip with nutplates and it works great. Another awkward spot is the clamps and bolts that hold the roll bar, that is if the -9 is the same as my -6. I riveted nutplates on the clamps and it saved a lot of aggravation.
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1950 Navion - flying
RV-6 - 18 yrs and 99.5% done
1940 Rearwin Cloudster project next
4 L-2 projects on deck
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  #3  
Old 03-13-2017, 02:40 AM
Hornet2008 Hornet2008 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NSW Australia
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Thanks for your reply, the roll bar was easy with just nuts, bolts and washer. For the rails I had a cheap 9mm combo wrench I heated and bent to 90 degrees. Only took a little over an hour to do both rails. Secret is to line up the hole with the nut before inserting the bolt and use clear tape to hold the nut on the wrench. Had to push the nut with a spare finger to get them started. I also used a light to help show the hole from underneath.
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