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  #1  
Old 01-29-2017, 10:56 AM
Larry Parham Larry Parham is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Prescott AZ
Posts: 114
Default Cowl to Plenum-redu-with pix(hopefully)

My 9A has the standard Vans Cowling and a plenum. There is a small air gap all the way around, between the two. How do others mate the two together so they can be detached easily? thanks Larry


https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pveEhDNGJhMm5R

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pveEhDNGJhMm5R

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pveEhDNGJhMm5R

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pveEhDNGJhMm5R
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  #2  
Old 01-29-2017, 12:31 PM
JohnInReno's Avatar
JohnInReno JohnInReno is offline
 
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Location: Prescott Valley/Chandler AZ
Posts: 352
Default Pictures from google

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Parham View Post
My 9A has the standard Vans Cowling and a plenum. There is a small air gap all the way around, between the two. How do others mate the two together so they can be detached easily? thanks Larry


https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pveEhDNGJhMm5R

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pveEhDNGJhMm5R

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pveEhDNGJhMm5R

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pveEhDNGJhMm5R
You need one extra step: Load the picture, right click, copy image location, and then use the "mountain" icon to paste the picture.

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  #3  
Old 01-29-2017, 01:08 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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Default

The standard, non-plenum plans call for some baffle seal material in between the cowling and the baffles/ramps. The rubber baffle seal material is flexible enough to get the cowling on/off without trouble.



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  #4  
Old 01-29-2017, 02:20 PM
Vonsmallhousen Vonsmallhousen is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New Zealand, Whangarei
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Default

I have also used the Vans baffling and made my own plenum lid. To seal the engine cowl to the engine I followed the Van instructions also to install the rubber baffle seal in the intake area only. Worked really well with no leaks. This was done exactly as shown by Bruce in his pictures
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Last edited by Vonsmallhousen : 01-29-2017 at 02:44 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-29-2017, 08:52 PM
Larry Parham Larry Parham is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Prescott AZ
Posts: 114
Default COWL TO PLENUM

Thanks John Bruce and Dean, By your pix it looks like the bottom and top? Also my cowl and plenum do not align straight (high low), about 3/8 to 1/2 inch off. Will the rubber baffle seal material adjust for this change in height by forming it?
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Last edited by Larry Parham : 01-29-2017 at 08:55 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2017, 02:22 AM
Vonsmallhousen Vonsmallhousen is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New Zealand, Whangarei
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Default

Hi Larry. If it was me I would make fiberglass ramps to bring every thing to the same heights and width. My understanding is the smoother the flow in the better the cooling. If you don't have it all lined up then air can escape and cause cooling problems.

Take a look in the traditional engine section "really good baffle seal" there are heaps of photos and tips.

On mine I have a IO360 200Hp with angle valves. Im able to climb at best angle speed and Max RPM from sea level to 8000 plus feet on a ISA plus 15 day. Oil temp never gets over 88 Deg C and the CHT peak at 190 degC at 2500 feet then start getting cooler.

Take the time to get it wright you wont regret it
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2017, 09:09 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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There is no point in accepting the downside of a plenum lid (notably no easy access to the top of the engine) if the connection to the cowl inlets isn't absolutely leak free.

Plenum lids are easy. Sealed inlets are hard. Do whatever it takes.
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