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  #11  
Old 09-05-2008, 02:22 PM
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Rick6a Rick6a is offline
 
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In the interests of simplifying final assembly, for the most part I used AMP connectors. When I spliced the prewired wings to the fuselage, the electric (and other hookups) were greatly simplified and it was a pleasure to be able to almost immediately test the various circuits and see them operational.

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Last edited by Rick6a : 09-05-2008 at 02:24 PM.
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  #12  
Old 09-05-2008, 02:36 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Rick,

Those are nice connectors and I hope they work for you.

On the -9, there is maybe 1" of room behind the spar to work. Not enough to make connections, IMHO. Because of this limited space, I put snap bushings in the side of my fuselage and pulled everything inside and made the connections under the floor. Should I ever have to pull the wings, I will cut the wires and re-terminate them when the wings go back on.

As for the pitot and AOA lines, I left them full length (SafeAir1 flex lines) and ran them all the way to the panel after installing the wings, no connector. Again, only because I couldn't see getting tool in the wing root.
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2008, 02:57 PM
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kentb kentb is offline
 
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Default One word of advise.

No matter which connector you use, make sure you connect them before you bolt the wing on. After the wing is attached, you can't get your hand in there to work the connectors. Ask me how I know this.

Kent
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2008, 03:09 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Default One other thought...

Rick,

Not knowing how your wires exit the end wing rib, may I suggest you replace one of those connectors with a male connector? That way there is no possibility of connecting the strobes to the position/landing/pitot heat.
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RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
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Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2008, 03:46 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
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Default I suggest

whatever you do you don't do it in the wingroot...Do it inside the cabin whare there is some working room.

Personally I left a service loop and a pair of wire cutters in the toolbox.

frank
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2008, 03:54 PM
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Rick6a Rick6a is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
Rick,

Not knowing how your wires exit the end wing rib, may I suggest you replace one of those connectors with a male connector? That way there is no possibility of connecting the strobes to the position/landing/pitot heat.
Bill,

I used various color coded wires to avoid confusion and besides, the Whelen supplied strobe cable has an unmistakable and unshielded grounding wire dangling off to the side of the AMP connector. As mentioned in the first post, the connections have since been made and the circuits work as advertised. BTW, on the -8 series there is sufficient gap between the wing and the fuselage at that location and I had little difficulty making some connections after the wing was bolted into place.

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Last edited by Rick6a : 09-05-2008 at 04:15 PM. Reason: clarity
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  #17  
Old 09-05-2008, 04:07 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick6a View Post
Bill,

I used various color coded wires to avoid confusion and besides, the strobe circuit has an unshielded grounding wire. As mentioned in the first post, the connections have since been made and the circuits work as advertised. BTW, on the -8 series there is sufficient gap between the wing and the fuselage at that location and I had little difficulty making some connections after the wing was bolted into place.
Rick,

Good to hear it all worked out. I'll have to take a close look at the -8 next time I'm close to one.
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RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
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  #18  
Old 09-06-2008, 02:52 PM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
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Question Can't find the parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
I like these Mini-Con-X ones from DigiKey.
They are like plastic versions of Mil-Spec ones and are weatherproof. The Mini ones are good for 18 amps.

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T071/0320-0321.pdf

The Micro ones (6 pin) are good for the trim servo wires...

gil in Tucson
Gil,
I tried the web link you provided with no joy. Looking at the link I deduced that the items mentioned were on either page 320 or 321. I looked in the current on-line catalog but found nothing. I also tried a search on Mini-Con-X with no results. I know that you always give good advice. Could you supply a part number(s)? I suspect that the catalog you used is out of date.
Charlie Kuss
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  #19  
Old 09-06-2008, 03:07 PM
allbee allbee is offline
 
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Default

Here is my take. I have no plans to remove the wings after I put them on, so, straight wire from the panel to the wing tips, no connections, no worries about bad connections later. I think it would be prudant tho to leave a small loop or something in case the wing ever has to come off, than you use the dikes and move on, than reconnect with solder and shrink wrap.
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2008, 07:11 PM
SportAvServ SportAvServ is offline
 
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Default Wing/fuse wires

This is another way, a terminal strip prosealed to the floor.

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