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  #1  
Old 12-05-2016, 11:48 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Whistler BC
Posts: 207
Default RV-7 Horizontal Stabilizer Final Assembly Part 2

Enjoy.

https://youtu.be/xlU6Lguaazc
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  #2  
Old 12-06-2016, 12:43 AM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Location: Ooltewah, TN.
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Good work on the drill-out and re-rivets. I had to drill a few out myself, and I am not much farther ahead of you.

I noticed that you haven't notched the rear spar underneath the HS-411PP center bearing/hinge. On the plans, you will notice a hatched area right under that bearing where it instructs us to notch this part of the flange out (but not touching the HS-609PP reinforcement bars).


I had to go back and trim mine after I had riveted the rear spar together, so its not as nice and clean as I'd like, but I think it will be OK. I included some drilled holes for reliefs. You can see it on my blog:

http://theskunkwerx.com/rv7/dimpling...al-stabilizer/

I just had to rough guess the length of the cuts based on the drawing and relation to the holes. It refers us to DWG 27A but I could not find any measurements there.

And here is a large photo before I cleaned it up a little:
https://theskunkwerx.com/wp-content/...1/IMG_0716.jpg

I also am not sure that is even correct to do this at this stage, but I went ahead and did it while the spar was easy to access.
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  #3  
Old 12-06-2016, 07:41 AM
RV7ForMe RV7ForMe is offline
 
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Location: Europe
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Default Thank you!

Hey Andrew great work on these videos...

Lynn I also enjoy reading your posts!

Looks like the three of us started about the same time. I am behind already mainly because I have been trying for 5 weeks to get a ******* primer!

Anyhow keep up the good work. I have been inspired by you guys to make some videos while I wait for primer...
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  #4  
Old 12-06-2016, 09:42 AM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
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Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 397
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I'm right behind you guys as well. Riveted the rear spar and am starting on the front spar now. I also have NOT notched the rear spar yet--was planning to wait until later on in the build, when the measurements of the cut might be more obvious. I plan to do it without touching HS-609PP by very lightly going back and forth with a Dremel.

Side note: it was surprising how little torque 25 in-lbs is, for the nuts on the bolts attaching the bearing assembly. I'm used to just gorilla-arming nuts and bolts (on my non-airplane projects) and I had to double check that I couldn't actually finger-untighten a 25 in-lb nut!

EDIT: While typing that last part, I am reminded that I neglected to apply torque seal to those nuts. Will make a note to myself to do so before continuing with the build. Amazing how the act of writing about what you're doing helps you to review the work and double-check completeness.

Last edited by Draker : 12-06-2016 at 09:54 AM.
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  #5  
Old 12-06-2016, 11:25 AM
atalla atalla is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Whistler BC
Posts: 207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubedRoot View Post
Good work on the drill-out and re-rivets. I had to drill a few out myself, and I am not much farther ahead of you.

I noticed that you haven't notched the rear spar underneath the HS-411PP center bearing/hinge. On the plans, you will notice a hatched area right under that bearing where it instructs us to notch this part of the flange out (but not touching the HS-609PP reinforcement bars).


I had to go back and trim mine after I had riveted the rear spar together, so its not as nice and clean as I'd like, but I think it will be OK. I included some drilled holes for reliefs. You can see it on my blog:

http://theskunkwerx.com/rv7/dimpling...al-stabilizer/

I just had to rough guess the length of the cuts based on the drawing and relation to the holes. It refers us to DWG 27A but I could not find any measurements there.

And here is a large photo before I cleaned it up a little:
https://theskunkwerx.com/wp-content/...1/IMG_0716.jpg

I also am not sure that is even correct to do this at this stage, but I went ahead and did it while the spar was easy to access.
good call! Thanks didn't notice at all.
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Red Seal Heavy Duty Equipment Service Technician
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Squamish BC CYSE
RV-7 Left Elevator in progress
Dues paid
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  #6  
Old 12-07-2016, 08:31 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
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does anyone have a rough measurement from centre to cut away?
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Squamish BC CYSE
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  #7  
Old 12-07-2016, 10:11 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
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Location: Ooltewah, TN.
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I just rough guessed where it'd be by looking at where the hatch area was on the plans compared to the rivet holes. I could not find any measurements anywhere.
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  #8  
Old 12-08-2016, 06:26 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Location: Worland, Wyoming
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If you look at drawing 5 detail A (upper left) it shows a full scale view of the horns in position on the bracket. You could probably measure off of this drawing for a good clearance dimension. I'm just looking of my preview plans so can't tell you a dimension.
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  #9  
Old 12-08-2016, 11:03 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
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Location: Whistler BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarne View Post
If you look at drawing 5 detail A (upper left) it shows a full scale view of the horns in position on the bracket. You could probably measure off of this drawing for a good clearance dimension. I'm just looking of my preview plans so can't tell you a dimension.
i believe this is what your talking about.



Looks like a notch the width of the bolts on the hinge will add about 1/4' on either side of the horn.
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Andrew Atalla
Red Seal Automotive Service Technician
Red Seal Heavy Duty Equipment Service Technician
Welder/Fabricator
Squamish BC CYSE
RV-7 Left Elevator in progress
Dues paid
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  #10  
Old 12-09-2016, 06:41 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atalla View Post
i believe this is what your talking about.



Looks like a notch the width of the bolts on the hinge will add about 1/4' on either side of the horn.
I don't think it needs to be that much, all you are trying to clear is the horns themselves, the rod end will attach to the horns on the lower end. The empennage attach drawing shows a side view of the situation.

The red marks I put on your image is what needs to clear. I am thinking this dimension plus maybe an 1/8" on each side as the horns should not move side to side much.

Edit: After thinking about this a little more I think your original number of 1/4" is probably a better number considering we are talking about elevator deflection and the cost of this binding is high (even though it is a nose down position). Also the reinforcement bars are taking most of the load; taking a little more off of the spar channels shouldn't be a big deal.

[IMG][/IMG]
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RV-7A Emp. done
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Finish kit almost done
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Last edited by jcarne : 12-09-2016 at 07:31 AM.
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