RV-7 Horizontal Stabilizer Assembly Video Part#1

atalla · #1 11-29-2016, 08:23 PM

Hello all.

Iv gotten very good reviews from these videos so here is another one.

https://youtu.be/qYHO1j0Dkgo

Enjoy!

RV7ForMe · #2 11-30-2016, 08:46 AM

How do you hold the camera btw?

atalla · #3 11-30-2016, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RV7ForMe

How do you hold the camera btw?

Go-pro Chesty, Iphone 6 propped up against something, Macbook pro camera.

CubedRoot · #4 11-30-2016, 04:53 PM

I posted a reply on the video, but here I'll put it here just in case:

I am not sure I would have used washers on the bolt head side. I didn't when I bolted my HS-411 down to my rear spar. The plans manual details how many threads you need to have on the tail of the bolt after the nut has been torqued, and I am not sure there there will be enough threads on the tail using a washer on both sides.

5.20 in the plans manual states that you need at least 3 full threads past the nut after the proper torque has been applied. This is under the "MS Nuts" paragraph, but I am sure it applies to AN3* nuts as well.

jcarne · #5 11-30-2016, 05:54 PM

These videos are spectacular! It's one thing to read about it but to see it is way more useful. Thanks for the effort!

atalla · #6 11-30-2016, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CubedRoot

I posted a reply on the video, but here I'll put it here just in case:

I am not sure I would have used washers on the bolt head side. I didn't when I bolted my HS-411 down to my rear spar. The plans manual details how many threads you need to have on the tail of the bolt after the nut has been torqued, and I am not sure there there will be enough threads on the tail using a washer on both sides.

5.20 in the plans manual states that you need at least 3 full threads past the nut after the proper torque has been applied. This is under the "MS Nuts" paragraph, but I am sure it applies to AN3* nuts as well.

Completely agree. However, If I go to a longer bolt and maintain the 3 threads would it not be better to have a washer on both sides?

atalla · #7 11-30-2016, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcarne

These videos are spectacular! It's one thing to read about it but to see it is way more useful. Thanks for the effort!

Thanks very much. I'm glad your enjoying them!

CubedRoot · #8 11-30-2016, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atalla

Completely agree. However, If I go to a longer bolt and maintain the 3 threads would it not be better to have a washer on both sides?

I don't see any harm in doing that other than the few ounces it would add back there. Just remember being all the way back there a few ounces can make a difference with that much arm when it comes to weight and balance.

Draker · #9 11-30-2016, 10:25 PM

Yea these videos are great--This one has reminded me to re-cleco my HS to check and make sure that tapered flange is not too close to the inboard aft rib. I did not check that during assembly. Will be doing that before I prime everything this weekend.

Snowflake · #10 11-30-2016, 10:55 PM

If I recall, the bolts have a washer-shaped flat on the underside of the head. So they are designed to bear on just that surface. Structurally, they're fine without a washer as the plate they are bearing on is steel and acts as its own washer against the aluminum. Adding a washer would distribute the load slightly as the washer would be larger than the integral flat.

There is no harm in adding a washer, other than the added weight of the washers and the necessary increased length and therefore weight of the bolts... Every additional unnecessary gram comes out of your useful load at the end of the day.