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11-26-2016, 11:19 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJCF16
I reinstalled them on the rib not thru the floor skin and the rib. This way if I ever need to get back in there I will only need to remove the screws for the center panel and drill out the other floor rivets. I won't have to drill out the nut plates again.
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Everything is a trade-off.....
That will make it easier to remove the baggage floor but if you ever mess up one of the nutplates, you will have to remove the baggage floor to replace it.
All design work is done to prevent buried nutplates for this reason.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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11-26-2016, 11:34 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sumner, WA
Posts: 722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrollF4
My right step cracked up high on the inboard side after only 200 hours, with RARE use. As most of us know, this is a classic and all-too-common failure. A local welder wanted "around" $100 to repair and reinforce it.
However, given that a new step costs $100, and given that either way I've got to remove the step from the fuselage, I ordered a new one. I'm one of those dummies that actually riveted the cargo area floor into place: This exercise will give me the opportunity to install platenuts in those floor ribs.
My new step looks just like yours, with the reinforcement gusset. It'll take a day of work, but it'll be good to have the new one in place.
Regarding the left step (still stock, no reinforcement gusset): The Mother Ship tech guys recommended I NOT replace it unless it starts to show a crack. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
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I'm guessing that once you install the new step you will never need to remove the floor again.
I had to remove and reinforce my cracked passenger step. The floor removal was the easy part. I lost sleep over sandblasting off my nice primer, basecoat, and clearcoat. 
__________________
Jeff Bloomquist
Sumner, WA
PP-ASEL, IR
RV-7A
Flying
1150 Hours
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11-26-2016, 11:34 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: DVT Phoenix
Posts: 1,187
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We have actually (a few times) made a 4x4 inch? access hole in the baggage floor where the inner retainer is, remove the bolt, remove and reinstall the step and then pull rivet a larger piece back into place. A little difficult to set the outboard rivets but very doable.
Larry
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11-28-2016, 09:45 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,964
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RV-10 too?
Will the new steps we utilized for the RV-10 too? I haven't heard of people having cracked steps on the 10, but I'm not sure whether the 10 step is any different than the steps used on other models. Can anyone shed some light on this?
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11-28-2016, 10:09 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Covid Country-SoCal
Posts: 1,081
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New part?
IMHO, that is not an example of the prettiest TIG welding I've ever seen. In a part that already had a propensity for failure, I'm surprised at the undercut and missed areas around the edge of the bead. Just sayin'!
~Marc
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJCF16
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RV-10
N814RV
2020 Donation Made
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