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01-17-2007, 05:43 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Canby, Oregon
Posts: 1,786
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engine pre-heater
It has been cold here in Oregon lately. I was able to go flying for a couple of hours last Sunday, but before I went I wanted to warm up the engine a little.
When I got to the hangar the engine monitor said that the oil was 37 degrees. I think that it was more like 32 in the hangar.
I took the top cowl off and place a small (1500 watt) heater on top pointing down at the case. I then covered it with some firewall blanket tucked inside the baffle.
After 1 hour the engine monitor claimed 50 degrees and I felt that this was ok to go with. The plane is not hard to start, it is just that I don't want extra wear on my engine.
Now the question, has anyone made a pre-heater from a small heater (cheap) before?
I don't want to have to remove the cowl. I as think along the lines of a box with one or two of the orange header duct line going to the cowl inlet and then sealing the rest of the opening with something.
I don't want to reinvent the wheel, so if someone has a suggestion or plans I could use, great.
Kent
__________________
Kent Byerley
RV9A N94KJ - IO320, CS, tipup
AFS 3500, TT AP, FLYING....
Canby, Or
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01-17-2007, 05:53 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Huskerland, USA
Posts: 5,862
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I took an electric "milk house heater" (approx 14" x 12" x 8") some 6" household ducting, a couple of 90 degree elbows, and pop riveted it togeather and push the heat up through the bottom of the coweling between the exhaust pipes. I added some 1" alum angle to the bottom for stability. I took some 3" foam and cut blanks for the holes in the front coweling, and I throw a towel over the coweling for insulation.
I leave it on 750 watts 24/7 under 30F and the engine temp is always 60-70F. Make sure your ducks don't catch any oil dripping out of the breather tube.
I've always wanted to make a skirt (no comments from the peanut gallery) that goes around the engine and draped to the floor to hold the heat in. Even a sheet would make a huge difference.
__________________
RV-7 : In the hangar
RV-10 : In the hangar
RV-12 : Built and sold
RV-44 : 4 place helicopter on order.
Last edited by Geico266 : 01-17-2007 at 06:51 PM.
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01-17-2007, 06:39 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI area
Posts: 2,967
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I tell you what, they are a little pricey, but the Tanis engine pre-heaters are worth it. I had the one that has probes for each cylinder, and a pad for the oil pan on my Cherokee 180, and it was probably the best $350 (three years ago) I spent for winter weather ops. Just go out the night before a trip, plug it in, and it's ready to go without hesitation the next day.
DO NOT LEAVE THEM PLUGGED IN ALL THE TIME!! That will trash your oil...
I plan to put one on my engine. They work!

__________________
Chad Jensen
Astronics AES, Vertical Power
RV-7, 5 yr build, flew it 68 hours, sold it, miss it.
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01-17-2007, 08:17 PM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,300
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Regarding engine heaters:
Quote:
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DO NOT LEAVE THEM PLUGGED IN ALL THE TIME!! That will trash your oil...
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Many of us that use engine heaters disagree with that opinion.
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01-17-2007, 08:46 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Peshtigo, Wisconsin
Posts: 767
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I have a small ceramic heater that has a shroud made of aluminum terminating in a 3" duct pipe. Then 3" flexible dryer vent tubing comes off that which I stuff in the cowl exit between the exhaust pipes.
I have this plugged into a thermostat that is normally used for heat tape that is used to keep water pipes from freezing. I stuff this into the oil door in the cowl with the power line from the wall socket going into the thermostat, and then a chord from the thermostat coming back out the oil door and down to the heater which sits on the floor under the airplane. Then I throw 3 blankets over the cowl with one of them tucked into the cowl inlets.
I keep this plugged in 24/7 and the heater tape thermostat keeps the entire inside of the cowl at between 38-50 degrees. That may not seem like much to you fellers from Texas, but up here in Wisconsin, in the winter, that is darn right balmy! My engine turns over just great and starts quite easily. Also keeps my battery happy. The heater kicks on maybe 2-3 times/hour with the temps in the 20's, with each cycle lasting maybe 1 minute. Hardly runs at all.
In the really cold weather, I also put another ceramic heater inside the cockpit on the floor to heat up the instrument panel an hour or so before I fly. Otherwise, things like my Dynon and Lowrance airmap 1000 are REAL sluggish to get motivated.
__________________
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Peshtigo, WI
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01-17-2007, 09:02 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 45
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Engine Pre-heater
I use an EZ Heat Model 441 that's glued to bottom of oil sump on my RV6A with an O360A. It works on a 110 volt male plug accessed from the oil door. Works like a champ. Maker sez OK to leave on all the time. I've left it on weeks at a time. Anybody else have any experience with these? Manny E. El Paso
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01-17-2007, 09:23 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI area
Posts: 2,967
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan
Regarding engine heaters:
Many of us that use engine heaters disagree with that opinion.
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I figured somebody would disagree with that... 
__________________
Chad Jensen
Astronics AES, Vertical Power
RV-7, 5 yr build, flew it 68 hours, sold it, miss it.
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01-17-2007, 09:41 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
Posts: 1,019
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I have done exactly what "geico266" did - milkhouse heater with Al dryer duct attached to the front - total cost about 25$ from Menards.
Shove the duct into the bottom of the cowl, cover the top with a blanket, and you're all set. Keeps the battery and everything warm.
I have a Reiff system on the skyhawk and I love it, it works great, but is far more expensive.
Thomas
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Thomas Short
KUMP - Indianapolis, IN / KAEJ - Buena Vista, CO
RV-10 N410TS bought / flying
RV-8 wings / fuse in progress ... still
1948 Cessna 170 N3949V
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01-18-2007, 09:25 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Carson City NV
Posts: 550
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Small Heater
Hi Guys
This is an interesting thread for me. One of the problems I encounter with my Champ was starting in cold weather. I solved that problem with a $25.00 100w silicone heating pad from my local NAPA aviation supply store. I had it plugged in 24/7 with on harmful affects to the oil. I have installed the same type of pad on my Lycoming oil sump it is plugged in 24/7. The mornings here have been between 10 & 20 degs F my engine starts quickly and the oil pressure comes up with out hesitation. I believe having a small wattage heating pad on 24/7 heat soaks the case, cylinder bases, crank, cam and all the other core components. The oil is at 60 degs F after engine start and would think the rest of the engine is close to that temperature. IMHO
__________________
Dayton Murdock
VAF#408 RV4 N359DM Flying 1046 hrs 7/16/19
Builder Log
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01-18-2007, 11:27 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Ga
Posts: 7,840
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Reiff
I have the Reiff system on my oil sump and it'll get the oil to 100 degrees overnight in 30 degree weather. I have a friend with a Cirrus 22 that we just installed one on.........loves it.
http://www.reiffpreheat.com/
Regards,
__________________
Pierre Smith
RV-10, 510 TT
RV6A (Sojourner) 180 HP, Catto 3 Bl (502Hrs), gone...and already missed
Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 Sold
Air Tractor 402 PT-6-20 Sold
EAA Flight Advisor/CFI/Tech Counselor
Louisville, Ga
It's never skill or craftsmanship that completes airplanes, it's the will to do so,
Patrick Kenny, EAA 275132
Dues gladly paid!
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