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  #31  
Old 11-02-2016, 06:30 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vic syracuse View Post
And I hear you on "they haven't moved so I leave them," but I don't think that is the right approach. My opinion.
Vic
Your right Vic. Not just an opinion. Good practice is just that.

Again, thanks for posting all the safety items you discover in the many RV's you inspect.
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  #32  
Old 11-02-2016, 11:41 PM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
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Originally Posted by az_gila View Post

I dumped all of my kit hardware in trays and just picked what fit, using the plans to specify the type of hardware. Putting the wrong hardware in without checking the plans is a big boo-boo.
I did the same, and if I couldn't find the hardware specified on the plans, I put in a quick order to ACS. The rear spar/fuselage junction is supposed to allow for a small amount of rotation...so don't torque it down!
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  #33  
Old 11-03-2016, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Why would he question it? The bolt is in "standard orientation" with the head forward.
Gil,

That's just it - on the 9/9A plans for DWG 38 Section G-G the bolt head is aft - this may be due to flap clearance. I can't find a revision on Van's site telling me the orientation should be otherwise.
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  #34  
Old 11-03-2016, 07:19 AM
6 Gun 6 Gun is offline
 
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Question Bolts

Getting ready to change mine on my RV6.
Should they be torqued to proper numbers or snug the plans show the correct way to install bolt?Im pretty sure from the torq seal I have in place there is no movement going on .
Bob
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  #35  
Old 11-03-2016, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 6 Gun View Post
Getting ready to change mine on my RV6.
Should they be torqued to proper numbers or snug the plans show the correct way to install bolt?Im pretty sure from the torq seal I have in place there is no movement going on .
Bob
Yes. However, with any castellated nut, you have to get lucky that you can get the cotter key in at a precise torque value. You can experiment with combinations of standard and -L washers. Get it close.
I don't know what the plans show, but on the 6 you can easily put the bolt in the proper orientation.

I don't think there is much if any movement at this joint, but per plans is the proper way to do this and kind of a standard for rear spar connections in other airplanes I have seen. Van was an excellent engineer and he would have done it the way he deemed best regardless.
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  #36  
Old 11-03-2016, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fearless View Post
Gil,

That's just it - on the 9/9A plans for DWG 38 Section G-G the bolt head is aft - this may be due to flap clearance. I can't find a revision on Van's site telling me the orientation should be otherwise.
In AC43.13 where "standard" fastener orientation is addressed, it also adds "unless specified otherwise by the manufacturer". There are numerous instances in RV's where a deviation from the standard is recommended.

Having said that, in this particular case I am not sure why the bolts are specified to be reversed because there would be no interference if the nut was on the aft side. It is possible that it is because of a late design change in the flap leading edge but I don't recall one. So in the case of the RV-9 it would be acceptable to install the bolt in the normal orientation.




Regarding movement of this joint and people seeing no evidence of it.......

It all depends on the loads the wing has experienced!

I assure you that if the wings are loaded to limit load values, there is significant flex/deflection in the wings (witnessed during many different static load tests) which translates to some amount of movement at the aft spar attach point.
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  #37  
Old 11-03-2016, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Regarding movement of this joint and people seeing no evidence of it.......

It all depends on the loads the wing has experienced!

I assure you that if the wings are loaded to limit load values, there is significant flex/deflection in the wings (witnessed during many different static load tests) which translates to some amount of movement at the aft spar attach point.
Very good point Scott.
This also leads into checking the screws of the overlap of the fuselage bottom skin to the wing. I have found these need to be tightened up a bit over time. I think many do not think to check them.
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Last edited by JonJay : 11-03-2016 at 10:00 AM.
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  #38  
Old 11-03-2016, 10:20 AM
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Smile Torque it up a bit more...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
Yes. However, with any castellated nut, you have to get lucky that you can get the cotter key in at a precise torque value. You can experiment with combinations of standard and -L washers. Get it close.
I don't know what the plans show, but on the 6 you can easily put the bolt in the proper orientation.

......
AC43.13 allows quite a spread of torque allowance to get the cotter pin holes to line up.

While a AN5 bolt is usually listed at 100-140 in lbs, the torque can be increased to the maximum if needed to get the alignment, which is 225 in lbs.

As usual, add the "drag torque" to the above numbers, but this is pretty minimal for a non-locking nut.

f. When installing a castle nut, start
alignment with the cotter pin hole at the minimum
recommended torque plus friction drag
torque.
NOTE: Do not exceed the maximum
torque plus the friction drag. If the
hole and nut castellation do not align,
change washer or nut and try again.
Exceeding the maximum recommended
torque is not recommended.


https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/...Chapter_07.pdf
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  #39  
Old 11-03-2016, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
AC43.13 allows quite a spread of torque allowance to get the cotter pin holes to line up.
Great addition Gill! Thanks.
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  #40  
Old 11-03-2016, 10:56 AM
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this bolt acts as pin. if you apply torque to the nut to apply a clamp load and the joint moves it will fret and then it will lose the clamp load over time. I snugged mine up hand tight.
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