c-frame question

jcarne · #1 10-12-2016, 06:54 PM

Has anyone successfully used the c-frame from aircraft tool supply? I ordered one a few months ago and attempted to use it on a practice kit. The shaft apparently got bent very easily and the dies no longer stayed aligned. I sent it back in as the top arm also had a bushing issue (it was tilted back). I just received the warranty replacement and after dimpling a couple of holes the shaft is now bent again. I am not hitting it excessively hard as I stop when I hear the pitch change. I don't know if they just use a low quality steel or what the deal is but I'm getting pretty dang frustrated with this whole ordeal. I guess my question is has anyone else had this happen? Should I just throw this thing in the garbage and order one from Cleaveland? I probably should have ordered from Cleaveland to begin with but hindsight is 20/20 Thank you for the replies

wjb · #2 10-12-2016, 08:55 PM

I picked up mine from Brown Tool (in one of their RV kits) and have been beating on it through all of the kits .. tail, wing, fuse, finishing .. and it's still as as good as new, and super solid. Sorry you've been having such trouble; it doesn't seem to be a difficult thing to make bulletproof.

WingsOnWheels · #3 10-13-2016, 05:35 AM

Mine is from Brown Tool as well, no issues for the entire build.

I did find that it works much better if you hold the shaft/die down against the metal before you strike the shaft. Then there is very little travel and little risk of binding and bending. Plus no risk the sheet will move mid-swing.

jcarne · #4 10-13-2016, 08:42 AM

Thanks for the replies guys. I totally agree, this is not something that should be difficult to design well. Looks like it's back to the wallet for better quality. Lesson learned

wirejock · #5 10-13-2016, 08:47 AM

Mine is Avery and built two 7a.
I don't use the spring. Personal preference. I also hold the shaft down.
Now I have blown up four HF 2lb dead blow hammers!

JonJay · #6 10-13-2016, 10:32 AM

I purchased the Cleveland product more than 20 years ago. I used it through my build including beating my spar rivets into submission with a hammer, literally. It mushroomed the head a bit but to this day is still in great shape. I can not tell you the force it takes to beat down those spar rivets, but it held up to that.

ppilotmike · #7 10-13-2016, 12:07 PM

If you're frustrated with the ol' C-frame, get a DRDT-2 from Experimental Aero. Those things are much better quality in my opinion, and you simply pull a lever, instead of banging on them with a mallet. They are quick, quiet and make great dimples. Might cost more, but you can easily sell it to someone else at the end of your build. Check it out.

Cbull · #8 10-13-2016, 01:58 PM

2nd on the DRDT-2. I bought only the head and built the frame from scrap. They send drawings for the frame construction. Love it. I've never used a c-frame, but seems like a loud and violent method of getting dimples done. Again, no experience with a c-frame

JonJay · #9 10-13-2016, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbull

2nd on the DRDT-2. I bought only the head and built the frame from scrap. They send drawings for the frame construction. Love it. I've never used a c-frame, but seems like a loud and violent method of getting dimples done. Again, no experience with a c-frame

Anyone and everyone who has used one agrees.
However, a C-Frame is more than just a dimpling tool. I have used them as a rivet setting tool many times. Can the DRDT-2 set a 1/4" rivet? If it can, I am even more sold.

ppilotmike · #10 10-13-2016, 03:48 PM

The DRDT-2 cannot be used for riveting. However, I've found that any place where you could rivet with a C-frame can usually be back-riveted, which turns out superior flush rivets.

I've used both a C-frame and the DRDT-2, and the argument is like that of whether or not to buy a pneumatic squeezer, a good drill, etc, etc. Even if they cost a bit more, you can always reclaim most of your investment by selling to another builder, if it comes to that. My opinion is: use the best tools for the job that you can afford, but not necessarily the most expensive brands. Tool choices affect build quality and builder sanity.