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  #11  
Old 10-14-2016, 04:20 AM
rv6nosedragger rv6nosedragger is offline
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Australia
Posts: 8
Default spar bolt washer placement.

Hi All

Quick question regarding spar/wing attachment bolts.

Which of these bolts require washers and where? Head or nut or both ends?
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2016, 05:32 AM
YellowJacket RV9 YellowJacket RV9 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL KCLW
Posts: 1,281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6nosedragger View Post
Hi All

Quick question regarding spar/wing attachment bolts.

Which of these bolts require washers and where? Head or nut or both ends?
Whichever end you intend to turn when tightening - not sure on the 6A but on the 9A several of the bolts had to be torqued from the bolt instead of the nut, and so the washer goes under the bolt head. Not so say you can't put one under the nut as well, as long as there are enough threads showing.

Chris
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RV-9A - Done(ish) 4/5/16! Flying 4/7/16
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  #13  
Old 10-14-2016, 08:37 AM
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BruceMe BruceMe is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
"After installing the spar bolts, I swore I would sell the plane before removing the wings."

This. Absolutely.
There's a long list of things I "won't ever do again"

Build a fuel tank
Trim a cowl
Paint a plane
Take the wings off

Yeah... I've done all those many times. They suck and you will do them when you have to.
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Building RV-4A 18ZM
Built/Own RV-4 254MM
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  #14  
Old 10-14-2016, 05:16 PM
RViter RViter is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse View Post
I won't go into detail why right now, but I am needing to pull the wings on my RV-6A and want to leave it on the landing gear. Is this possible? If so, how? I can't see it right now, so I need to ask. I know the -7A and up this is possible because of the design of the center sections. Need to know how it works on the -6A.

Thanks in advance!
I fabricated a couple of faux spar replacements for the factory straight wood spar shipping insert, to get a better fit while my -6A sat on it's gear for months, and months. A cherrypicker and straps to lift the fuse by wrapping thru strong points on the engine mount to handle the height, boards under the wheels to control sagging gear. Inserted and removed the wings TWICE in the build.

The custom faux spar needs a flat forward side and an 'open' aft side (used rails of 1 1/2" x 5/8" plywood, on the top/bottom of the aft side. The open area allows some nutplates on the forward side of the spar bulkhead. These nutplates (and bolts from the aft side secure the control stick assemblies to remain intact, and in position.)

http://www.mykitlog.com/garyc
* entry for 4-20-2015 shows move to airport with gear and no wings.
* entry for 12-07-2010 shows the faux spar design and gear towers.
NOTE: I did cut a correct dihedral on the inboard ends of the faux spars. Didn't 'exactly' match drill a few holes but marked and drilled a few oversize holes 'good enough'. Main point is to hold the gear but get the thickness close enough and don't overtighten the street hardware to secure the gear.

This is the BIGGEST PITA on the -6A because so much needs to be done with wings on the fuselage and there's no center spar/bulkhead to work with. -7A and later have a major build advantage in this point.

Also - there are revisions and notes on wiring/pass-thru that earlier builders didn't have (if you have questions).
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RV-6A QB Tip-Up, 1st Flight 3/18/17
O-360-J2A (modified & F/I), Sensenich FP (cruise)
VP-X Sport, Dynon SkyView, VFR day
(FFZ) Mesa, AZ - N234GB -
www.mykitlog.com/garyc
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