Help - Tailwheel Socket (WD-101) Removal

eaglen92ce · #1 10-10-2016, 10:38 AM

I am trying to remove the socket (P/N WD-101) on the end of the tailwheel spring on my RV6. I have removed the two AN3 cross bolts but the socket will not budge. I did not build this plane so I have never had this apart before. Is the spring interface a tapered fit or just a constant diameter section? Any suggestions on a graceful way to break the socket free from the spring?

Thanks!

Dean Pichon · #2 10-10-2016, 12:50 PM

On my -4, it's a straight section. If yours is stuck, I would guess it either has some corrosion at the interface, or the previous owner/builder may have epoxied it in place to compensate for a less-than-perfect fit between the two parts.

Perhaps a close inspection can give you some clue as to which is more likely. I assume the AN-3 bolts were removed without issue? If rusted, try Liquid Wrench (be patient). If epoxied, try the heat gun, but you may damage the paint before the epoxy softens.

Good luck,

eaglen92ce · #3 10-10-2016, 02:24 PM

Dean,

Thank you for the feedback. I do have penetrant sprayed on it and so far I have been patient! The bolts did come out okay. They were tight so I had to lightly tap them out. Heat is my next option I agree. I am powder coating the tailwheel fork and arm and wanted to add the socket to the powder coat job. I may end up leaving it in place and just strip and paint it in place. I was hoping it would just pull off!

Bob Martin · #4 10-10-2016, 03:46 PM

Bill,
I am not sure exactly what you are trying to do.
The tail spring is straight in the socket section.
There is only one bolt that holds the spring into the socket. The bolt head or nut is visible from the bottom of the fuselage.
The socket is sandwiched internally between two bulkheads.
To remove the socket, you would first have to remove the spring, then remove the 3 bolts from the rear bulkhead and then the 2 from the front bulkhead. The socket, which is a snug fit between the bulkheads should lift up and out through the access cover.
The spring is steel and the socket is steel so rust is likely.
This is a tough job as sticking your hand/arm through the access hole means you are feeling your way around because you can't see.
Good luck.

eaglen92ce · #5 10-10-2016, 04:27 PM

Bob,

Thank you for the reply. I am actually working on removing the socket at the other end of the spring, not removing the spring from the airframe. I was just looking at the RV6 preview plans and the RV7 preview plans. It looks like I have the RV7 set up with a bolt on socket at the tailwheel end of the spring that accepts the tailwheel yoke. The original RV6 plans show the spring just bent 90 degrees to accept the tailwheel yoke (no separate socket). Thanks again for taking the time. I appreciate it.

Dean Pichon · #6 10-10-2016, 05:36 PM

Hi Bill,

I powder coated my tailwheel parts, too. Provide the powder coat shop with good masking instructions! I wish I had done the tailspring too. Perhaps you could remove that and have it done as an assembly.

If you don't care about the existing finish, I'm sure you can coax it off with some heat. When I assembled mine, I put some anti-seize lubricant on the tailspring. (You can use whatever you put on your spark plugs.)

Good luck,

eaglen92ce · #7 10-10-2016, 08:17 PM

Thanks to everybody that responded. I ended up pulling the entire spring which came out easily! I will powder coat them assembled. I actually do the PC myself so I will be mindful of the masking!

Thanks again for the thoughts. I appreciate it!

Bill