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09-22-2016, 12:23 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,246
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Air dams and delta-temps
Experimenting with a little aluminum foil tape to find the right heights for the air dams before cutting them down and installing them (made mine removable), and found 1/2" results in a difference in CHTs of about 10 deg F between front and rear cylinders in level cruise at normal speeds. This is in comparison to 25-30 deg difference without the tape. The only issue with this is that the front ones tend to get a bit hotter during initial climb (just over 400, unless I shallow out the climb considerably, or step climb, either of which is manageable).
What would you consider a realistic goal for getting the temps matched up? 5 deg? 0?  I.e., how much "polishing the cannonball" should I do here?
TIA!
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09-22-2016, 02:12 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,122
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I'd be quite happy with a 10 degree delta, for me I see about 30-35 delta in a hard climb and about 20 delta in cruise with the front cylinders cooler.
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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09-22-2016, 02:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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How much of the original air dam are you guys flying with, trying to decide if I need to trim some before first flight?
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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09-22-2016, 03:05 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bret
How much of the original air dam are you guys flying with, trying to decide if I need to trim some before first flight?
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I put them on for the first flight, and took them off immediately after...much, much too large, blocking too much airflow to the front cylinders.
I haven't had them on now for 400+ hours, but decided to start messing with this a few weeks ago.
I'd leave them off entirely for the first flight and see what you get. And, one of the best pieces of advice I got during the build...make them removable, with screws and platenuts, NOT riveted in!
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09-22-2016, 03:07 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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that's what I did, removable for trimming.
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7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
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09-22-2016, 03:17 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,805
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I removed them completely, after a couple of iterations of cutting them down.
__________________
Doug
RV-9A "slider"
Flew to Osh in 2017, 2018 & 2019! 
Tail number N427DK
Donation made for 2020
You haven't seen a tree until you've seen its shadow from the sky -- Amelia Earhart
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09-22-2016, 09:04 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,122
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I've got the stock air dams trimmed about 1/2" lower on mine.
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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09-22-2016, 09:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,281
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I pulled mine, but after getting everything sorted out and broken in, I could probably use a small dam for my #1 jug.
Larry
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N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
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