Generator

[CS-XAO]

HI there!

can annybody tell me, what type of alternators was installed in the RV6's, built up to 2002?
there's no type-plate, the only thing i found is a sticker "NO 015081"

cheers Olli

[CS-XAO]

[DaleB]

Like this? https://www.google.com/search?q=0150...081+alternator

[CS-XAO]

here you can see some pictures of the gen

https://www.flickr.com/photos/143974...posted-public/

[Low Pass]

Originally Posted by CS-XAO

here you can see some pictures of the gen

https://www.flickr.com/photos/143974...posted-public/

Based on my recollection from the 2000 time frame, that's not a generator. That's a 35 amp Van's supplied alternator. Dale has listed some viable, current day replacement options above.

[rv7charlie]

Bryan is right; there hasn't been a generator (except permanent magnet 'dynamos') sold for homebuilt piston engines in many decades.

If you're looking for a replacement, take it to your local auto-electric rebuild shop. There will be someone there who can tell you what cars used it, and either fix or swap it out for you.

IIRC, the 35 amp alternators came from Hondas, but the memory is fading fast.

External regulator, or internal ('one wire')? There should be lots of higher output alternators that will fit & that don't weigh any more than the 35A model. Upside to higher output capability is that there is lower stress on the internal components of the alternator, when run at your typical demand.

Charlie

[rv7charlie]

Update/possible correction: Does it look like
https://www.google.com/#q=14231+alternator+specs

If so, the lester # is 14231 and 'the google' says it's from a Nissan product, made by Hitachi. Below is text relating to hookup from an email that I saved to my hard drive many years ago; the author's last name is lost.

Hope that helps....

Charlie

quote:
Here is how to wire a Hitachi 14231 alternator. The back of the alternator
has a post marked "B" which is of course for the battery. It goes to the
battery side of the alternator - where all the other brown non-keyed power
go to. Then there is a "T" shaped hole with two male end wire attachments.
The horizontal part of the "T" is known as "S". This wire is the wire that
gets looped over to the B post on the alternator. I have the stock "T"
shaped plastic plug that goes in there with the stock wires. This wire is
pretty beefy. The vertical part of the "T" is known as "L" or light. This
of course goes straight to the dash warning light. The other side of the
dash warning light goes to keyed power (which is usually white). That's
it.

You eliminate the Control Box, Alternator Relay and Warning Light
Simulator. I did however use some of the stock wires for the above. For
instance, the brown/yellow wire that comes from the alternator and goes to
the Warning Light Simulator, I simply attached that to the "L" on the new
alternator at one end and then at the Warning Light Simulator end, I
attached it to the brown and green wire that goes from the Warning Light
Simulator to the dash light. The other side of the dash light already goes
to white keyed power. The brown wire that goes from the starter solenoid
to the Alternator Relay, I just extended and used for "B" on the
alternator. That's it.

The rest of the wires either simply come off when you remove the Control
Box, Alternator Relay and Warning Light Simulator, or simply hang out with
no problems. I think I taped them up and under the wiring harness there to
make it look neater. I think there is a ground there that is no longer
needed either. However, I left that attached just to keep it where it
belonged.

Jay
unquote