|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

06-30-2016, 10:14 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Location: KBVY Massachusetts
Posts: 1,092
|
|
Learning to Flare Tubing- First Flare Attempts
HI all,
Well I've hit that part of the learning curve that says it's time to learn to flare.
I got myself a tube cutter, some 3/8" .049 5052 aluminum tubing, a Rolo 37 degree flaring tool, and a tube bender. I watched the Cleaveland
Aircraft video on flaring and bending, read a bunch of posts here in the forum and then did my first 3 practice runs.
Here's the results - top to bottom - first, second, third attempt:
And here is the best of the three held lightly on a male flare. The shadows make it hard to tell, but I have the impression that the flare is too long.
Any comments and suggestions about the flare attempts are very welcome.
__________________
Flying RV-8 N880BC
2019 Dues - happily paid.
|

06-30-2016, 10:38 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL USA
Posts: 545
|
|
Quote:
|
The shadows make it hard to tell, but I have the impression that the flare is too long.
|
Maybe your Rolo tool is different from mine - but mine has an arm that lets you establish proper insertion depth of the tube in the tool before you clamp the tube in place. Should prevent any too short/long problems.
I'm sure you know it is important to cut the tube square with a tubing cutter and properly de-burr and smooth it before you flare it. Looks like that may have been a problem with your first two flares but the third looks fine from the photo.
__________________
Dan Langhout
2020 =VAF= Dues PAID . . . . .
RV-7 N528DP slow build
First Flight July 26th, 2014
665 hours and counting . . . .
Now based at Moontown (3M5)
|

06-30-2016, 10:43 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Location: KBVY Massachusetts
Posts: 1,092
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Langhout
Maybe your Rolo tool is different from mine - but mine has an arm that lets you establish proper insertion depth of the tube in the tool before you clamp the tube in place. Should prevent any too short/long problems.
I'm sure you know it is important to cut the tube square with a tubing cutter and properly de-burr and smooth it before you flare it. Looks like that may have been a problem with your first two flares but the third looks fine from the photo.
|
My Rolo is the same as yours and I used the arm to position the tube.
I forgot to mention that I also bought a deburring tool and I used that on the inside. On the outside I used a scotchpad. Though I did see one discussion that suggested using a file lightly on the outside by rolling the outside corner on the file. Maybe I'll try that next.
What lubricant do you use on the cone?
__________________
Flying RV-8 N880BC
2019 Dues - happily paid.
Last edited by Saville : 06-30-2016 at 10:46 AM.
|

06-30-2016, 10:47 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,456
|
|
dang I thought this thread was about landing! 
__________________
Scott Black
Old school simple VFR RV 4, O-320, wood prop, MGL iEfis Lite
VAF dues 2020
Instagram @sblack2154
|

06-30-2016, 10:53 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Location: KBVY Massachusetts
Posts: 1,092
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sblack
dang I thought this thread was about landing! 
|
HAHAHA sorry..I should have been more explicit in the title.
__________________
Flying RV-8 N880BC
2019 Dues - happily paid.
|

06-30-2016, 10:56 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Collierville, TN (KFYE)
Posts: 1,433
|
|
If you haven't done this, put a drop or two of machine oil on the flaring cone right before flaring, and also make sure that the cone is positioned in the center of the tube. The roloflare tool does a great job but it's got some slop in it and you have to be sure it's set up just right. One other thing I do is flare a little and then back off, flare some more, back off, etc to avoid too much friction between the cone and the tube, and to ensure that oil is between the cone and the tube.
__________________
RV-8 #81077 Super Slow Build
Dynon Skyview HDX, Titan IOX-370, Dual P-Mags, AFP FM200A FI, Whirlwind 200RV CS Prop
First Flight 11/20/2016
www.marksrv8.com
|

06-30-2016, 11:04 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Location: KBVY Massachusetts
Posts: 1,092
|
|
Any opinions on using Fuel Lube as the lubricant?
__________________
Flying RV-8 N880BC
2019 Dues - happily paid.
|

06-30-2016, 11:10 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Collierville, TN (KFYE)
Posts: 1,433
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saville
Any opinions on using Fuel Lube as the lubricant?
|
I'd think it would work fine, although I've never tried it
__________________
RV-8 #81077 Super Slow Build
Dynon Skyview HDX, Titan IOX-370, Dual P-Mags, AFP FM200A FI, Whirlwind 200RV CS Prop
First Flight 11/20/2016
www.marksrv8.com
|

06-30-2016, 11:13 AM
|
 |
Senior Curmudgeon
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saville
HAHAHA sorry..I should have been more explicit in the title.
|
Fixed that for you.
By the way, looks like you need to de-burr much more than you did, also be careful to not over flair the tube.
I use a different tool, but have found simple motor oil to work well, as well as Bolube or bees wax.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
Last edited by Mike S : 06-30-2016 at 11:15 AM.
|

06-30-2016, 12:12 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Huntsville, AL USA
Posts: 545
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saville
I forgot to mention that I also bought a deburring tool and I used that on the inside. On the outside I used a scotchpad. Though I did see one discussion that suggested using a file lightly on the outside by rolling the outside corner on the file. Maybe I'll try that next.
What lubricant do you use on the cone?
|
After cutting and lightly deburring the tube, I typically would use a jewelers flat file across the end and then some purple scotchbrite to try and get the end as smooth as possible with no nicks. I also would scotchbrite the finished flare just a bit as well just to make sure there were no sharp edges. I normally used just a bit of air motor oil (marvel mystery oil) on the flare tool cone since the bottle was always sitting around for use with the air drill.
There is no need to "crush" the flare cone into the flare. It is pretty obvious when you are down as far as you need to be as the torque required will suddenly increase significantly. 5052 is tougher than the 3003 stuff that comes with the kit - but you can still over flare it.
BTW - I also used 5052 for all of the tubing on my -7.
__________________
Dan Langhout
2020 =VAF= Dues PAID . . . . .
RV-7 N528DP slow build
First Flight July 26th, 2014
665 hours and counting . . . .
Now based at Moontown (3M5)
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:16 AM.
|