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  #1  
Old 06-18-2016, 01:59 PM
Eddie Eddie is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Africa
Posts: 24
Default Aileron rigging advice needed

Hi, I am looking for some help from the clever guys please.
I have a RV6, and have flown many hours since I bought her, but from the beginning I had a heavy right wing. I have went through the normal heavy wing procedure of squeezing the trailing edge, but I'm not happy yet.
I believe that the aileron rigging is not perfect. On the ground, when I push the stick left and let go it will go back towards the middle and stop just right of centre, when I push the stick right and let go it stays there.
I have also measured the following angles with my iphone on the top surfaces of the ailerons and wings. Measured in degrees from level as it stood in the hanger.
Wings- 13 degrees from level and ailerons 15 degrees from level in neutral position.
RH aileron- 21 degrees up from neutral and 13 down, 34 total.
LH aileron- 25 degrees up from neutral and 13 down, 38 total.
In level flight she wants to pull right and RH aileron will be up by very little and LH aileron down by little bit.

Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2016, 03:01 PM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 999
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Try lowering the Right flap by lengthing the right link by one turn & see what that does.
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built a few RVs, rebuilt a few more, hot rodded some, & maintained/updated a bunch more
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  #3  
Old 06-18-2016, 03:19 PM
Eddie Eddie is offline
 
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Location: South Africa
Posts: 24
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Thanks Ralph, I have done that, but I have to create quite a big difference between the aileron and flap trailing edges before it helps. It bothers me everytime I see it.
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2016, 04:17 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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Maladjusted spring trim buried in there somewhere?
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  #5  
Old 06-18-2016, 04:56 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
Maladjusted spring trim buried in there somewhere?
That's what I was thinking. Can't imagine another way that the stick would come back on it's own on the ground. Maybe the P/O set up the springs without the adjuster as his way of dealing with the heavy wing and did it wrong.

Once removed, you may have a whole bunch of different rigging issues, but at least they will respond properly to your adjustments.

Larry
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  #6  
Old 06-18-2016, 06:05 PM
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Kevin Horton Kevin Horton is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 2,357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie View Post
Hi, I am looking for some help from the clever guys please.
I have a RV6, and have flown many hours since I bought her, but from the beginning I had a heavy right wing.

...

Any ideas?
Have you done everything recommended by Van in the "Wing Heavy Analysis" published on the Vans site?
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  #7  
Old 06-18-2016, 06:39 PM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Aileron design travel per the manual is 30 up, 17 down, with minimum acceptable 25 up & 15 down. Yours are less than the minimums, & each side not the same, interesting. 2 things I can think of might cause this- the aileron control stop blocks drilled onto the inboard aileron bracket at different positions & set too shallow, or the bellcrank(s) installed backwards. Reference pg 15-2 of the manual, drawings 16, 19a

As for the heavy wing in flight, did you check the incidence of both wings, both at the root & wingtip. There might be a wing warp or mis-alignment.
How's the rudder trim? Yaw can pull a wing down too.

You have some detective work ahead
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  #8  
Old 06-18-2016, 11:06 PM
Eddie Eddie is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Africa
Posts: 24
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I also believed it was the spring in there somewhere. We recently refurbished the plane which included removing the wings, flaps and ailerons. Everything was inspected (but not measured) and found nothing weird inside. We did nothing hoping that something would have changed through the whole process.
I have not measured wing incidence yet and it does look like I have a 1-2 degree twist in the RH flap and have a rudder trim tab to cancel right rudder, which can all lead to a heavy wing, but this should be solvable with the normal aileron squeesing tecnique. My main concern is the fact that the stick forces are different. Standing outside and pushing the ailerons up and down with my hand, I can clearly feel the difference in the amount of pressure required and see the difference in tavel with the naked eye.
How do I go about measuring the bellcrank angles, positions and pushrod lengths?
Im not the builder, so I will have to get hold of the plans somewhere.

Thanks for the feedback so far.
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  #9  
Old 06-19-2016, 06:03 AM
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Bob Martin Bob Martin is offline
 
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Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,227
Default Plans

http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/...oduct=cd_plans

Plans are easy to over from Van's....on CD....10 bucks.

Description
Get your entire kit plans, manual, OP Drawings, catalog, and other reference material in the PDF format on a CD from Van?s Aircraft.

Load it up to your laptop, iPad, or your other favorite electronic device for use at work, or in the hanger.
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RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1200+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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  #10  
Old 06-19-2016, 01:45 PM
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woodmanrog woodmanrog is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 774
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I had the same problem. Here is how we easily fixed it. First make sure that you have weights equal in both fuel tanks and in both seats. If it still has a heavy wing, you can GENTLY massage the trailing edge of the opposite aileron so that it slightly curves downward. I can't stress enough that a small amount goes a long way, so go slowly, test fly, and adjust as necessary.
On the ground the stick should be in the middle and the spring resistance equal in both directions.
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