Drilling out rivets

LettersFromFlyoverCountry · #1 12-29-2006, 08:24 PM

Without repeating a thread on Yahoogroups, I'm interested in hearing as many tips as I can regarding drilling out rivets. Not the flush-head rivets (easy!), but the 1/8" universal head rivets and, specifically, the 1/8" universal head rivets that pass through doublers.

Long story short: I'm replacing the doubler on a rear wing spar on my 7A. But I'm also interested in hearing from folks who've done this procedure and how it worked out.

I did get a fascinating e-mail from a gentleman who says he also replaced his fuselage forks. Wow! That strikes me as quite an endeavor! I'm interested if anyone else has done that.

N941WR · #2 12-29-2006, 08:31 PM

Bob,

Search the builder tip section.

There is a good thread on there: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ead.php?t=8481

ctbecker · #3 12-29-2006, 08:36 PM

I find it easiest to drill out the round head 1/8" rivets by first remarking the center with a punch, then drilling with a #40 drill bit at a very slow speed to a depth only slightly deeper than the head. I then try to break the head with a 3/32 punch. If it breaks off, I have a clear view of the rivet shank. I continue to drill through with the #40. When I break through the shop head, I then break off the shop head and punch out any remaining shank with the 1/8 punch.

If I cant break off the head with the #40 bit, I enlarge the head with the #30 and try to break it off with the 1/8 punch.

I think the real trick is to take your time and suppress the urge to run the bit at full speed.

RScott · #4 12-29-2006, 09:10 PM

There's a better way than using a punch to punch out the rivet. If the shop head is on a thin piece of aluminum, a rivet that doesn't come out easily will bend the metal as you punch it out.

Take a cheapie pair of diagonal wire cutters. As everyone knows, the cutting surfaces are offset from center, greatly recessed on one side and almost flush, but not quite flush with the face on the other side. Grind it on the almost flush side to allow it to cut flush against a surface. Sorry about the poor description.

Now, drill out the rivet as others have described. Take your modified cutters, grip the shop head and TILT the pliers to pull the rivet out of the hole. This way, one side of the tool holds the skin down as you pull on the rivet.

There is a better tool for this, but it doesn't seem to be available any more. Pliers shown on p. 77 of my Cleaveland catalog and called "Painless Cable Tie Safety Cutter", item # 56662, but it doesn't show on their web site, so I presume it is no longer available. None of my other catalogs have them. For those in the Seattle area, Boeing Sales has them almost all the time for about $3.

az_gila · #5 12-29-2006, 10:38 PM

Or use this method... somewhat of a combination of the above...

Check here on my website.... with pretty pictures...

http://home.earthlink.net/~gilalex/Rivet/

gil in Tucson

DanH · #6 12-29-2006, 11:18 PM

Buy one of these:

https://www.cart.averytools.com/pc-5...oval-tool.aspx

LettersFromFlyoverCountry · #7 12-30-2006, 08:50 AM

the link dosn't work but I assume you're talking about the removal tool with the different drill bits and the recess for the head to fit into. I bought one of those a few years ago. the rsults had been OK. Not great. OK.

The part at which I've run into problems in the past is NOT the part about drilling the head off. It's the part AFTER drilling the head off, especially in doubler plates.

DanH · #8 12-30-2006, 01:53 PM

<<the link dosn't work..>>

Whoops, sorry.

<<but I assume you're talking about the removal tool with the different drill bits and the recess for the head to fit into.>>

Yep.

<<I bought one of those a few years ago. the rsults had been OK. Not great. OK.>>

Hmmm. Are you using it two-handed, ie, pressing the guide firmly against the rivet head with the non-drilling hand? The internal spring isn't strong enough for one-handed work.

<<The part at which I've run into problems in the past is NOT the part about drilling the head off. It's the part AFTER drilling the head off, especially in doubler plates.>>

Can you describe the specific problem? Once you get the head off, 426's and 470's are pretty much the same. I just took out about 300 426's to replace a stock turtledeck with a fastback TD. A few 470's in the job too.

johnp · #9 01-02-2007, 02:15 PM

i have also purchased the rivet removal tool (sort of like a microstop cage with a cup that fits over the rivet head.) unlike bob, i have had outstanding results -- after 2 or 3 practice rivets, it hits the center every time.

the only other hint i would offer is that if you are going to drive out the remainder of the rivet with a punch, then it really helps to support the back side with a bucking bar. almost a two-person operation.

Rick6a · #10 01-02-2007, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Collins

.....The part at which I've run into problems in the past is NOT the part about drilling the head off. It's the part AFTER drilling the head off, especially in doubler plates.

Bob,

I find using one of these can be very useful for removing recalcitrant rivets. But a major word of caution. To use one successfully in your rivet gun, you almost always have to back up the work with a bucking bar to avoid causing damage. Generally speaking, the heavier the bucking bar backing up the work, the easier it is to shoot the remains of the rivet out of the hole.