Checklist Prior to Mounting Engine

[tx_jayhawk]

I recently got a shiny new 0-360 Superior roller tappet engine (no recall thanks goodness) from Bart at Aerosport, and I will soon be mounting it. I am curious if anyone might have developed a checklist of all things ideally needing done prior to engine mounting (hopefully it only goes on once?). For example...I have the folllowing done:

* solenoid / relay mounting
* battery box
* brake reservoir
* cabin heat vent
* gascolater
* others?

Since I am pretty much going the straight 360 route, I assume I should go ahead and drill holes for the throttle and mixture per Vans FF Fwd plans? Any other gotchas or things I need to ensure are done prior to mounting?

Also, if there is anyone in the Kansas City area that has an engine hoist that might be rented or borrowed it would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott
7a Finishing

[Ironflight]

Scott,

I don't know if you are using hinges or camlocks for your cowl, and I don't know if it is the same for a -7 as for an -8, but there are a couple of rivets (if you're using hinges) that are very hard to set with the engine mount in place. You might check those, and if you haven't riveted those on yet, make sure you have a plan!

I have a very conservative (read - Van's standard) FWF installation, and the firewall drawing worked perfectly (on the -8) for placing penetrations. I did them all before mounting the engine, and that made drilling many of the holes a piece of cake.

Paul

[fodrv7]

Scott,
The pictures below show the rivets that Paul mentioned, for cowl hinges (Or for Camlocs in my case) that are almost impossible to do after fitting the engine mount.

Also, you should mount your transducer block if you are going to use one for Oil Pressure and Fuel pressure plus a hole for you manifold press sensor if you are using one.

Pete.

[RV8N]

The oil pressure fitting in the accessory case is one of the biggest gotchas I can think of. It is located next to the top right motor mount and cannot be installed if the motor mount is in place. Make sure this is installed!!!

I have heard that newer engines have an alternate location for this fitting. Figure it out before mounting the engine.

Karl

[RV7ator]

Mount all the accessory case goodies. It's easier to twist and turn and remove/install items now than after the engine is mounted. Two things I can think of: The J... (that foreign prop governor) cable bracket that Van's sells is incompatible with a straight oil fitting (you need a 45 on the case and a custom hose with a 45), and a straight fitting into the fuel pump causes the gascolator-pump hose to interfere with the bottom of the governor adaptor. You have to pull the adaptor to install a 45 fitting onto the pump because it bangs into the adaptor when you rotate it.

One of the firewall holes for the throttle/mixture/carb heat (I can't remember which one) is too close to the pressure pump doubler plate. You might want to move it a smidgeon towards center, but keep in mind that degrades the cable's alignment with the bracket.

Do yourself a favor and buy an engine hoist, not much more than a fancy squeezer yoke you might use for 20 rivets, then you'll have it on hand for many tasks. Mounting the engine shouldn't take more than an hour even if you're clumsy and working by yourself; thus educated, the second time takes 30 minutes, so pull the engine if it helps some difficult task (like moving the fuse to the airport). Also, it's handy for hoisting the mess so you can fiddle with the wheels/fairings multiple times, you can hold up the wing tips while stuffing in center section bolts, and hanging the prop is Lego-simple.

John Siebold

[Paul Eastham]

Originally Posted by RV8N

The oil pressure fitting in the accessory case is one of the biggest gotchas I can think of. It is located next to the top right motor mount and cannot be installed if the motor mount is in place. Make sure this is installed!!!

I have heard that newer engines have an alternate location for this fitting. Figure it out before mounting the engine.

Karl

Yes, you must look at this before mounting. If you do have the alternate location, I highly recommend moving the fitting to the alternate location and blocking the other hole. The clocking of the fitting at the original location is very critical, and if the fitting ever leaks from all the adjustments you might have to unhang the engine to fix it.

Also check: platenuts on the firewall protrusion installed, holes/platenuts for breather tube and oil pressure line. I also pre-installed the oil cooler lines but in retrospect this was not so critical.

Good luck!

[Gary Bricker]

To add to the oil pressure restricted fitting. Check to see if you need a straight or angled one.