Setting the rivet gap on squeezer

rkiefer2 · #1 05-01-2016, 09:42 AM

What's the trick to quickly or efficiently set the gap on the squeezers?

60av8tor · #2 05-01-2016, 10:04 AM

If pneumatic:

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/mobile.../#.VyYouMj3anM

wirejock · #3 05-01-2016, 10:14 AM

Unless you're referring to setting the distance for a perfect shop head.
I usually hold the rivet next to the gap and adjust about one size under full length.
You're eye will learn and very soon, you will guess very close.
If you have different lenths to set, count the turns so you can get back to the perfect setting.
Also, keep in mind the setting will vary with the size of the yoke used. The biger ones give a little.

John-G · #4 05-01-2016, 10:15 AM

Once you have an adjustable plunger ... keep track of how many turns out from the dies touching is necessary to get the desired set for each rivet length you are using and write it down.

After a very short period of time you will have a list that quickly gets you into the ballpark and will only need to adjust a 1/4 turn or so if at all.

Also keep track of which yoke you are using for the above especially for -4 rivets... the shorter 1 1/2" yokes will require less turns for a given rivet compared to say a 3" yoke because the 3" yoke will flex more.

Happy building,

bruceh · #5 05-01-2016, 10:18 AM

Yes, the adjustable set is mandatory (and pricey). Dialing in the distance between the dies is easy. Start with the thickness of the material and then back it open a couple of turns. The yokes will flex a bit, but once you have it dialed in you can squeeze those lines of rivets pretty fast. It helps to always put some heavy duty clear packing tape over the flush rivet heads to help hold the rivets in place as you pull the trigger.

rkiefer2 · #6 05-01-2016, 11:18 AM

Thanks for the quick replies, that helps. I have the adjust set and learning as i go. These tips and tricks help.

rzbill · #7 05-01-2016, 04:12 PM

I imagine the above were talking primarily about a pneumatic squeezer. Hand powered squeezers need adjustment too. I clamped the fresh target rivet in the jaws and adjusted the set until the handle was at the angle I learned from experience was the right spot. Most of the time it was right. Sometimes on long rivets a second adjustment was needed.

BobTurner · #8 05-01-2016, 04:28 PM

It's just a burr under my saddle when posters use the word 'mandatory'. I used a pneumatic squeezer with washers and different sets for adjustment. After a little practice you quickly learn what's needed.

maniago · #9 05-01-2016, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rzbill

I imagine the above were talking primarily about a pneumatic squeezer. Hand powered squeezers need adjustment too. I clamped the fresh target rivet in the jaws and adjusted the set until the handle was at the angle I learned from experience was the right spot. Most of the time it was right. Sometimes on long rivets a second adjustment was needed.

I do the same - used a sharpie to mark the right handle angle. I bought Clevelands Main Squeeze; bit pricey, but no need for a pneumatic (or the accompanying compressor) though of course I have a big compressor anyway. I highly recommended the main squeeze if youre so inclined.