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  #1  
Old 04-30-2016, 12:36 PM
Av8torTom's Avatar
Av8torTom Av8torTom is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Yardley, PA
Posts: 1,361
Default Having one of those BAD days

Now that my canopy is all glued in the frame and the fiberglass fairing is done I cannot for the life of me get the top skin forward of the canopy to go into position (can't get the rivet holes to line up - at all. The clecos you see are about all I can get in place). Also there's a serious difference in elevation between the canopy and the forward skin. AND one of my gas struts is dead...

Any suggestions???



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RV-9A (empennage completed, both wings completed, fuselage and finish kit completed, engine hung, working on panel and wiring)
N677AT reserved
Superior XP O-320, 160HP
Picture log: http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...8tor215/RV-9A/

Last edited by Av8torTom : 04-30-2016 at 01:14 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-30-2016, 01:36 PM
jdiehl jdiehl is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Williamsport, Pa
Posts: 186
Default Forward skin

Similarly, this was a tough area to align with the underlying ribs. id recommend very gently filing any underlying high points...just enough to help relieve pressure on the Clecos. As for the offset between the tip up skin and forward skin, a lot of folks build up this area with fiberglass till there's a smooth interface. Be patient!

Jim diehl 7a
Lock haven, pa
Flying since 2012
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  #3  
Old 04-30-2016, 01:56 PM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdiehl View Post
As for the offset between the tip up skin and forward skin, a lot of folks build up this area with fiberglass till there's a smooth interface. Be patient!
Jim diehl 7a
Lock haven, pa
Flying since 2012
Much easier to shim the skin to level.
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2016, 02:26 PM
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Av8torTom Av8torTom is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
Much easier to shim the skin to level.
If I shim the skin I'll NEVER get the holes to line-up and the piece to fit. I'm thinking I may need to fashion a new piece myself and drill holes to match.
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RV-9A (empennage completed, both wings completed, fuselage and finish kit completed, engine hung, working on panel and wiring)
N677AT reserved
Superior XP O-320, 160HP
Picture log: http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...8tor215/RV-9A/
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2016, 02:37 PM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Av8torTom View Post
If I shim the skin I'll NEVER get the holes to line-up and the piece to fit. I'm thinking I may need to fashion a new piece myself and drill holes to match.
That's what I liked about our earlier kits. We didn't have to worry about any holes not lining up. We didn't have any holes to begin with.
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Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century. Over 1,000 certifications accomplished. Discount for Veterans, Law Enforcement, Fire Fighters.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
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  #6  
Old 04-30-2016, 07:19 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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On my 7 it seems that front structure is quite flexible without that skin. I would suggest you remove the gas struts and the canopy and then try to bring it into alignment one hole at a time. I have a routine by starting in the middle and working out to both sides at the same time. I found it really tough to get the final rivets down the longeron. I keep them in place with the clamping clecos. It will fit. Then install the canopy frame. Getting that to fit is a completely different state of affairs.
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Last edited by BillL : 04-30-2016 at 07:23 PM.
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2016, 08:18 AM
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Av8torTom Av8torTom is offline
 
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Default

Thanks everyone - I'll try fitting the skin without the canopy.

I had already added stops to prevent the canopy from sliding forward...

__________________
RV-9A (empennage completed, both wings completed, fuselage and finish kit completed, engine hung, working on panel and wiring)
N677AT reserved
Superior XP O-320, 160HP
Picture log: http://s271.photobucket.com/albums/j...8tor215/RV-9A/
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2016, 09:05 AM
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sahrens sahrens is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battle Ground
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With one dead strut you will also get a twisting motion which will complicate the fitting. Yes, I learned this the hard way as well. Here is where I bought the replacement strut.

http://truck-hardware.orrorr.com/ite...ends/h-9503-25
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Last edited by sahrens : 05-01-2016 at 09:09 AM.
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2016, 09:10 AM
pa38112 pa38112 is offline
 
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Location: Clarksboro, NJ
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Sorry you are having a bad day - I know how those go. You did the right thing: set back, ask for opinions, and don't rush a fix.

I understand what you mean by not getting the holes to line up with a shim, but it looks like you might have enough space to make C shim and rivet that down, then rivet the skin to it in the original holes?

On the bright side - A bad day in the shop is better than a good day at work, and much better than a bad day in the air...
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2016, 09:43 AM
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Larco Larco is offline
 
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Location: DVT Phoenix
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A little more work but in a few cases I have made a new skin and shimmed it up to match the Canopy. The prepunched skin is just to tight to allow much shimming. You can also remove the flange in the offending areas and replace it at a proper position up or down, along with the new skin if necessary . Use the weather strip angle as an example of how to do this using the appropriate size metal
Maybe more work but the outcome will determine the size of smile on your face for as long as you have the plane. :-)
Larry
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