Well, here's an interesting update.
Last night I pulled all of the inspection covers off the bottom of the plane. I figured this was a great opportunity to test the strippers on paint over metal, as opposed to paint over fiberglass. So, I set up four test pieces. Two were unaltered, just wiped down with a rag to get the oily belly scuzz off of them. The other two I scuffed up really well with 80 grit sandpaper (which didn't make it through the clear coat, the sanding dust was all white).
One of each got PTS-202, one of each got Citristrip and I covered them loosely with plastic to keep evaporation to a minimum. One was left on the bench with no stripper as a control.

After roughly 15 hours, I found some pretty surprising, gratifying results.
#1 - PTS-202 on scuffed paint, about 80-85% removed.
#2 - A tie between PTS-202 on un-scuffed paint, and Citristrip on scuffed paint. About half removed, maybe more. Both had loosened and bubbled up the middle of the piece, leaving the paint near the edges soft but still stuck pretty well.
#3 - Citristrip on un-scuffed paint, not a lot of progress.
I was able to verify that there was no primer under the paint, and the aluminum was not consistently or heavily scuffed before painting. I cleaned off #1 and #2 and gave them all another coat of Citristrip, then sanded the last panel (#5) and coated it as well, laying it on thicker near the edges.
So it looks like both do reasonably well on painted metal, especially if the clear coat is roughed up really well. It's too bad the parts that need stripping and repainting the worst are all fiberglass. I'll have to try attacking those parts with 60 or 80 grit and see if the strippers do any better with the finish broken.
I'm going to try some 3M vinyl on the inspection covers and we'll see how that does. It's actually a pretty good match for the existing paint color.