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  #1  
Old 04-27-2016, 11:36 PM
DaleB's Avatar
DaleB DaleB is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,331
Default 24 hours straight with two strippers...

Since we've had a very entertaining thread about Hookers, I thought I'd post my experience with a couple of strippers too.



So I have an airplane with lots of paint that will need to be removed before it can be re-painted. When I say "lots", I am not kidding. There appears to have been no real surface preparation or priming done, just some paint sprayed on rather thickly. It seems to be an automotive base/clear of some sort. The builder apparently had someone do it who is perhaps not the best painter in the country.

Since I'd like to minimize the mess and toxicity, I decided to try a couple of non methylene chloride strippers. I've had excellent success with Citristrip on many surfaces with stain, varnish, spray paint, etc. And Spruce sells some stuff called PTS-202 that claims to remove epoxy and urethane paint effortlessly. I even found a Youtube video of it being used to strip a Caravan or something. Pretty impressive, that one was.

So I brought the spinner home and brushed one side heavily with Citristrip and one with PTS-202. A couple of hours later there was no indication of any change in the condition of the paint. Since it's pretty heavy paint, I gave it another heavy brush coat of each. That was around 11 PM last night.

This morning there was no apparent change. None. The paint was still smooth and stuck down as well as before. I tested the paint with a razor blade; it's relatively soft, about like low density polyethylene. I can peeled off the clear coat and outer layer of color in thin strips like a carrot, but the paint is in no way loose or coming off. I gave it another very thick coat of PTS-202 on that side, and left the Citristrip side alone. With no further change by around 5 PM, I hit it with PTS-202 again.

The short story is... I don't know what this thing was painted with, but neither stripper is really doing squat. I don't know what PTS-202 WILL work on, but it sure as heck won't work on this stuff. I guess I'll have to resort to one of the nastier strippers to get the job done.

Pretty disappointing, really. I had hope for the Citristrip but didn't really expect it to work. The PTS-202, though, is advertised as "intended to remove the most resilient coatings from metal and composite surfaces", specifically claiming to remove "Urethanes, Epoxies and most other high performance finishes". Maybe cheap automotive finishes are not high performance enough for it to work on them.
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Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
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  #2  
Old 04-28-2016, 02:42 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
Question

Spruce says this -

The PTS-202 stripper is more ?environmentally friendly? and takes longer to penetrate the paint. However, the stripper removes the paint as a dry film and does not contain the same harsh chemicals found in the PTI-PRG. The advantage to the PTS-202 stripper is that it remains alive for up to eight hours. Therefore, if you are interrupted while removing the paint, you can leave the stripper on the plane and come back some hours later to complete the task ? the stripper will not have dried.

Perhaps the "dry film" they mention is the like the "carrot strips" you describe?
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2016, 06:50 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Location: Central IL
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Default

I like to use aluminum foil and cover the coated area to keep it active for much longer. I do recall some other non- MC stripper that worked, saw it here. I never had any luck with anything but MC, but there are lots of new products.

Do any of the strippers adversely affect the epoxy resins?
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  #4  
Old 04-28-2016, 08:27 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
Perhaps the "dry film" they mention is the like the "carrot strips" you describe?
No reasonable person would in any way characterize this as "removing" paint. It's just slightly softening the outer layer. It's still stuck quite tenaciously to the underlying fiberglass -- which was, as far as I can tell, not even scuffed prior to painting.

Put it this way: It was easier to chip the paint off before the stripper than it is to slice it off after having the stripper on for 36 hours, now. I just tried it again a few minutes ago after laying on another extremely thick coat of stripper late last night. I can use a razor blade to pare off about half the paint film, but I'm still not getting down to the fiberglass.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
I like to use aluminum foil and cover the coated area to keep it active for much longer. I do recall some other non- MC stripper that worked, saw it here. I never had any luck with anything but MC, but there are lots of new products.

Do any of the strippers adversely affect the epoxy resins?
The spinner is sitting in the garage on the bench, and I've kept laying on stripper often enough that it hasn't dried out. Seriously, I'm glopping it on pretty thick, just short of having it slide off. I have not seen any indication that either product is affecting the fiberglass at all. I was concerned about that, so I've tested the areas where it's exposed and found no softening, de-lamination, etc.
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Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2016, 11:59 AM
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9GT 9GT is offline
 
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I had a lot of fiberglass repair and paint work to do on my C-152 nose bowl a few years ago. Nothing worked until I used this stuff I purchased from the local auto parts chain; http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/klea...FZSCaQodtu4AMQ It worked in minutes and as soon as I had all the paint removed, I thoroughly washed the part with soap and water to ensure all stripper was removed.
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  #6  
Old 04-28-2016, 12:54 PM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9GT View Post
I had a lot of fiberglass repair and paint work to do on my C-152 nose bowl a few years ago. Nothing worked until I used this stuff I purchased from the local auto parts chain; http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/klea...FZSCaQodtu4AMQ It worked in minutes and as soon as I had all the paint removed, I thoroughly washed the part with soap and water to ensure all stripper was removed.
Yeah... Methylene chloride, methanol, xylene, etc. Those are in many of the common paint strippers I have used before and was hoping to avoid, but it doesn't look like I'll be able to. As much as I like the Citristrip for stripping woodwork, it looks like there isn't a better mousetrap in this case.
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Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
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  #7  
Old 04-28-2016, 01:01 PM
bnt83 bnt83 is offline
 
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Location: Lincoln NE
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Why not just sand it off? You'll never see stripper slathered on any composites at a certified repair station. Especially when a flap, cowl etc is a $40k+ composite part.

Last edited by bnt83 : 04-28-2016 at 01:04 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-28-2016, 01:24 PM
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acam37 acam37 is offline
 
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Location: Lufkin Tx
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I saw this stuff at the auto parts store that was labeled "aircraft stripper", but on the back in small print it said "not to be used on aircraft". Sorry, didn't read David's post first. I guess that's the same stripper
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Last edited by acam37 : 04-28-2016 at 01:27 PM.
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  #9  
Old 04-28-2016, 01:25 PM
Brian Vickers Brian Vickers is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bainbridge Island, WA
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Default Suggested product

Recently I was over at our local house paint supply store and while waiting for them to mix my order I struck up a conversation with a sales rep that was there to speak with the business owner. He said that Dad?s brand paint stripper is one of the highest strength consumer grade products that he is aware of, and with that suggestion I purchased a quart. It works better than any other product I?ve tried recently including Kleenstrip ?Aircraft Paint Stripper.? It still is not like the paint strippers of the ?good old days?, but it is the best that I?ve tried. The parent company on the back of the can says Sansher Corporation, Fort Wayne Indiana, and the website is www.dadseasyspray.com. Heat makes it more reactive, so try experimenting with hot air from a hand held heat gun or hairdryer. I just stripped the valve covers from my Chevy small block V8 and it lifted (crinkled) about 80% or the paint. I've tried ALL of the paint strippers stocked at my local ACE hardware - nothing worked.
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  #10  
Old 04-28-2016, 01:32 PM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
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Location: Lake Country, B.C. Canada
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Default please, no more sensational titles!!!

...and the really sad part, most of us are too old to have elevated pulse or BP from that title, much less anything else!

.....keep the good ones coming though, always fun! ( now where DID I put those wire strippers again?)
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