Newbie Riveting Question

amaris · #1 04-27-2016, 09:51 PM

Well, I've taken the first step on the long road. This is my first time riveting, and thought I'd seek the input of the group here.

I've started the Van's toolbox project and was having a few riveting issues on the hinge. I've used the squeezer on them and while most of them are good, there are a few where the shop head is overly flat. I felt like I was using the same force on the squeezers.

Any suggestions for more consistent rivets? How about to keep arms and hands from falling off after squeezing way more rivets than on the toolbox?
Thanks.
Allen

Robin8er · #2 04-27-2016, 10:00 PM

It looks like that rivet wasn't set level on the manufactured side when you squeezed it.

The solution is when you squeeze it, make sure you apply slight pressure on the manufactured side (the fat part that goes in the dimple). The makes it so that rivet remains flush with the skin while you squeeze it.

If the head does not remain flush with the skin during the squeeze process, you will get exactly the result you got.

Just takes some practice.

And for not being tired... set your squeezer in such a way that when you fully squeeze the handles together, it sets the rivet at exactly the correct depth. You have to experiment a couple times to get it right, but it reduces the amount of force required to squeeze the rivets compared to when you dont have it set correctly. Other than that, you just have to get used it it. You will use the rivet gun for most riveting anyway.

Kyle Boatright · #3 04-27-2016, 10:05 PM

With manual squeezers, I've always adjusted them so the handles just touch one another when the rivet is fully set. In other words, I set them up with a mechanical stop to prevent over-squeezing.

On my squeezers, you rotate the shaft that holds the set to determine that built-in stop.

Jasonm · #4 04-28-2016, 05:31 AM

Something else you can do that helped me is to mount the squeezer upside down in a vice which will allow you to hold the manufactured head down flat against the lower die with one hand and start the squeeze with the other.

By the way, this is not me in the picture. It's my wife who is a little vertically challenged.

BillL · #5 04-28-2016, 05:42 AM

I just got the pneumatic squeezer to set the rivets it uses the same yokes as the Avery hand model. If you are not working long sessions, then probably not an issue, but I like tools to ease the process. Grip strength will develop regardless.

Is that a CNC mill in the background?

Jasonm · #6 04-28-2016, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillL

I just got the pneumatic squeezer to set the rivets it uses the same yokes as the Avery hand model. If you are not working long sessions, then probably not an issue, but I like tools to ease the process. Grip strength will develop regardless.

Is that a CNC mill in the background?

It is, its a Tormach. I have the same setup with my pneumatic squeezer and love it!

amaris · #7 04-28-2016, 10:14 AM

Thanks for the input everyone! I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get into the actual build. I've got the training project next to get on.

I was thinking about building something to hold the squeezer on a flat table, but I'll give the vice option a try first.

wirejock · #8 04-28-2016, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amaris

Thanks for the input everyone! I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get into the actual build. I've got the training project next to get on.

I was thinking about building something to hold the squeezer on a flat table, but I'll give the vice option a try first.

The vice idea is really cool as are so many other tricks. I found a neat way to back rivet universal head rivets.
That said, don't skip traditional riveting practice. You need good gun/bar skills.
If you don't want to pound on the tool box, buy some scrap and practice.

az_gila · #9 04-28-2016, 11:07 AM

If your holes are slightly oversize, or maybe over deburred, the rivet body will expand sideways more and you can get a shop head that is not high enough.

Try the same part with a rivet that is 0.5 longer.

Also I see that it is a soft hinge being riveted. Repeat the same experiment with aircraft aluminum for both parts being riveted.

terrye · #10 04-28-2016, 12:39 PM

The rivet in the picture is definitely over driven or too short a rivet for the thickness of material. However, I think you are using the wrong end of the rivet gauge for dimpled rivets. I think this end of the gauge is for measuring the shop head of a rivet that does not end in a dimpled hole. Try the other end (the round hole) and ensure the shop head diameter is correct.

Also, be aware that both the diameter and head height have a tolerance. Have a look at Table II and III in MIL-R-47196A on the Vans site.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm