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  #21  
Old 04-25-2016, 03:18 AM
Bluebeard Bluebeard is offline
 
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Now I can report that the stiffeners I have recently fitted do eliminate the shimmy I previously encountered on hard-surface runways.

Maybe now I can safely increase my 24 psi tire pressure a bit.

I'm planning to inspect the stiffeners closely at the end of the summer season and see whether the cable ties (apart from ones where I used rubber backing) have marked the legs, loosened or deteriorated in any way.
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  #22  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:32 AM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
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Good to hear that the stiffeners worked for you. I haven't balanced any of my wheels/tires and run pressures of 40 psi all around. I've heard stories of people blowing tubes up front as a result of too little pressure. Make sure that the break-out force is within spec!
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  #23  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:19 AM
Bluebeard Bluebeard is offline
 
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A friend ripped the valves off his RV7's tubes due to running low pressures and braking too enthusiastically .......
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  #24  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:30 AM
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Dan Langhout Dan Langhout is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
I understand the logic and rationale for this recommendation. In my case, I chose tie wraps as I was concerned about corrosion under the F/G wrapping. My experience has been to avoid creating situations where moisture will be kept in contact with steel when possible to minimize corrosion. I found several posts from other members finding corrosion similar to what Katie found. The stiffener is not structural and therefore I was not concerned if the tie wraps failed. I used a rubber buffer to eliminate chafing.

Larry
What exactly did you use for the "rubber buffer"? Silicon self fusing tape or something else?
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  #25  
Old 04-25-2016, 11:33 AM
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Dan Langhout Dan Langhout is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebeard View Post
Now I can report that the stiffeners I have recently fitted do eliminate the shimmy I previously encountered on hard-surface runways.

Maybe now I can safely increase my 24 psi tire pressure a bit.

I'm planning to inspect the stiffeners closely at the end of the summer season and see whether the cable ties (apart from ones where I used rubber backing) have marked the legs, loosened or deteriorated in any way.
So - what exactly did you use for a rubber backing? (Seems like I am conducting a survey about rubber backing now )
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RV-7 N528DP slow build
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665 hours and counting . . . .
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  #26  
Old 04-25-2016, 01:41 PM
Bluebeard Bluebeard is offline
 
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For my backing, on some of the cable ties, I used a piece of bicycle tube rubber.
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  #27  
Old 04-25-2016, 07:41 PM
fixnflyguy fixnflyguy is offline
 
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Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
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Default proseal

The steel gear legs are rust prone by nature of alloy. I chose a slightly different approach, and epoxy primed, urethane pained the legs, then set/bonded the wood stiffeners with Proseal and taped in place. After Proseal cured, I wrapped with 3 layers of glass and sealed top and bottom with Proseal. 5 years in service, no cracks, corrosion and no shimmy. I don't recommend any RTV around steel, as it's acid will cause corrosion.
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  #28  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:44 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Langhout View Post
What exactly did you use for the "rubber buffer"? Silicon self fusing tape or something else?
It is a rubber tape that comes on a roll for electrical. It is not really self- fusing, but it does kind of stick to itself. It is maybe 1/16" thick. Get it at home depot
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  #29  
Old 04-26-2016, 07:23 AM
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Dan Langhout Dan Langhout is offline
 
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Default Thanks . . . .

. . . . for the info.
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  #30  
Old 04-26-2016, 07:35 AM
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bret bret is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixnflyguy View Post
The steel gear legs are rust prone by nature of alloy. I chose a slightly different approach, and epoxy primed, urethane pained the legs, then set/bonded the wood stiffeners with Proseal and taped in place. After Proseal cured, I wrapped with 3 layers of glass and sealed top and bottom with Proseal. 5 years in service, no cracks, corrosion and no shimmy. I don't recommend any RTV around steel, as it's acid will cause corrosion.
Can you please expand on the statement about steel and RTV? I have been using this stuff on steel, cast iron, aluminum engine, TC, and diff parts for decades......
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