Priming

Cwood2000 · #1 03-19-2016, 07:58 PM

Just started on my 14 and have a question. Is it best to prime each piece or a whole assembly such as the vertical stabilizer, before putting the skin on. I was not planning on priming the skin on the inside. Thanks in advance.

Dawg

Mel · #2 03-19-2016, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cwood2000

Just started on my 14 and have a question. Is it best to prime each piece or a whole assembly such as the vertical stabilizer, before putting the skin on. I was not planning on priming the skin on the inside. Thanks in advance.
Dawg

IF you are going to prime the structure you should prime each piece before assembly. You want the primer between the parts.

Cwood2000 · #3 03-19-2016, 08:12 PM

I realize it is a matter of choice, but is priming really necessary? My Rv 4 is 25 years old polished alum, but some parts were primed on the inside.

Cwood2000 · #4 03-19-2016, 08:35 PM

Thanks Mel

Robin8er · #5 03-20-2016, 01:23 AM

Endless debate. Vans addresses it in the plans. I chose to prime, but if you want to hit the easy button, just use a spray can and prime where parts mate together.

Cwood2000 · #6 03-20-2016, 03:32 AM

Thanks, that easy button sure sounds good, I did read Van's opinion they make a good point that, they way the plane is cared for has more to do with coorossion than priming.

Dawg

WingsOnWheels · #7 03-22-2016, 11:46 AM

Even though I don't live near the ocean now, I chose to prime probably out of habit. I remember many years ago back home I was fixing a dent in my truck. I sanded down to bare metal and went to mix the filler. By time I finished mixing, there was rust on the bare metal.....the downfall of living on the beach...haha

coffeeguy · #8 03-22-2016, 12:01 PM

One question about priming mating surfaces. Sounds easy, probably is. I'm working on step 1 on of the RV-14 plans, putting on a doubler plate. I can spray the backside of the doubler, but what about the piece it mates to? Do you mask that and prime, or just shoot it with rattlecan and let it overspray?

My first thought was just shoot it and any overspray won't hurt anything and most likely help. Since I'm shooting NAPA gray 7220 I'm hoping it won't be too noticeable. Just wondering what others have done here.

In some ways working with fiberglass is so much easier.

Jeff

wirejock · #9 03-22-2016, 04:26 PM

Jeff
The only answer is, "It's your plane. Build it the way you want."
That sounds harsh but every builder makes those decisions.
Some go totally "Comando".
Others Alodine and spray Akzo.
Find what works for you and go for it.
Personally I think both mating surfaces should have protection.

FYI
I sprayed everything with P60G2.
My process is debur, scotchbrite with maroon, dimple, wash with grey scotchbrite and Bon Ami cleanser, dry and prime. Not necessarily on the same day but the window between cleaning and priming is never more than one hour. Aluminum Oxide reforms within two hours of removal. Paint won't stick to it.
My $.02, YMMV

coffeeguy · #10 03-22-2016, 09:43 PM

Thanks Larry,
In the end I just pulled my cars out of the garage cleaned the two parts with acetone and hit them with primer. There's a bit of overspray on the front spar because I didn't mask it, but it looks fine. There will be more on other parts as I go along so I decided not to sweat it. I can do the whole paralysis by analysis thing, so I'm just going to try to make continuous progress.

Of course I'll have to go back tomorrow and hit the other side of the doubler because I shot the wrong side this evening.

Jeff