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  #1  
Old 12-20-2006, 06:39 PM
BlackRV7's Avatar
BlackRV7 BlackRV7 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 704
Default B&C Wig-Wag Alternative

Seems I have "lost" my B&C SSF-1 (or equal) flasher. On Aeroelectric, Bob refers to this as a simple automotive flasher unit. Does anyone know of a Autozone, NAPA. etc. part number.

Have to keep at it to get the fuselage to the painter by Jan. 1!!

Thanks,
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Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
http://www.DanaOverallCPA.com
Repeat offender, RV-10 emp
Builder/former owner, RV-7, "Black Magic" Flying
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMi05-WU2D0#GU5U2spHI_4
VAF #993
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  #2  
Old 12-20-2006, 09:24 PM
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hgerhardt hgerhardt is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: torrance, ca
Posts: 645
Default strobes 'n more

http://www.strobesnmore.com/

Click on the Headlight Flasher section. I'm using that as well as one of their strobe power supplies in my RV-6.
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  #3  
Old 12-21-2006, 05:19 AM
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BlackRV7 BlackRV7 is offline
 
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Default Thanks Bobby Hester

Thanks to Bobby Hester (on another list, oh my:-), the part, or equal, is NAPA EL-13A-2, I have also heard EFL300, EFL300BP. The flasher will handle lights up to 150 watts.

For those interested in low cost wing flasher setup, Bob's is as easy as it gets. The theory is run power to one of the three tabs on the flasher unit (20 or so bucks), then run power off the remaining two tabs, one to each wing light. Now, there is a B&C S700-2-3 switch in the system. The PDF is on Aeroelectrics website, http://aeroelectric.com/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf. Go to your local Grainger store (or google Carling 4x850, double throw, On-none-On) and drop $4 for the switch. Now you have a wing flasher unit that weighs nothing and costs, with tax........something like $28, with no shipping, and found locally. One of those A+ deals.

See: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?p=38837
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Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
http://www.DanaOverallCPA.com
Repeat offender, RV-10 emp
Builder/former owner, RV-7, "Black Magic" Flying
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMi05-WU2D0#GU5U2spHI_4
VAF #993

Last edited by BlackRV7 : 12-21-2006 at 01:18 PM. Reason: added pdf location
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  #4  
Old 12-21-2006, 08:36 AM
pwhaley6347 pwhaley6347 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 32
Default Wig Wag Alternative

Here is one I would have bought if I had found it before I ordered the B&C unit.

http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagmnl.htm
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Paul Whaley
Chico, CA
RV-7A
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  #5  
Old 12-21-2006, 10:04 AM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Victoria, Canada
Posts: 2,247
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRV7
Thanks to Bobby Hester (on another list, oh my:-), the part, or equal, is NAPA EL-13A-2, I have also heard EFL300, EFL300BP. The flasher will handle lights up to 150 watts.

For those interested in low cost wing flasher setup, Bob's is as easy as it gets. The theory is run power to one of the three tabs on the flasher unit (20 or so bucks), then run power off the remaining two tabs, one to each wing light. Now, there is a B&C S700-2-3 switch in the system. The PDF is on Aeroelectrics website, http://aeroelectric.com/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf. Go to your local Grainger store (or google Carling 4x850, double throw, On-none-On) and drop $4 for the switch. Now you have a wing flasher unit that weighs nothing and costs, with tax........something like $28, with no shipping, and found locally. One of those A+ deals.

Here's a way to wire up a wig-wag with just single pole switches. The TAXI and LANDING switches must be OFF and the FLASH switch must be on for wig-wag operation.

The advantage of this arrangement is that there is only one switch element in series with the lamps in normal operation. This makes it a bit more reliable.

I also used inrush current limiters to protect the switches and breakers and to increase lamp life. The downside of this is that I needed to pop the cover off of the flasher and increase the internal capacitor value to 10 uF to slow the flashing rate down. This allows the lamps to come up to full brightness.


Vern Little
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  #6  
Old 12-21-2006, 08:39 PM
pwhaley6347 pwhaley6347 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chico CA
Posts: 32
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vlittle
I also used inrush current limiters to protect the switches and breakers and to increase lamp life.
What did you use for the current limiters?
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Chico, CA
RV-7A
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  #7  
Old 12-21-2006, 10:55 PM
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vlittle vlittle is offline
 
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Location: Victoria, Canada
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Default

They are GE CL-21 devices, available from DigiKey. I sized them for my 75W wingtip lamps.

Other lamp wattages may need different devices.

see http://www.thermometrics.com/assets/images/cl.pdf

Vern
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  #8  
Old 01-13-2008, 02:22 PM
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Gsuit Gsuit is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Beaumont, TX
Posts: 210
Default Wig... no Wag

Anyone have this issue... Both lights work in the ON position, but in the wig-wag position one light will flash, but the other will not. This is the case for me, even if I switch connections for the lights on the flasher tabs.

I'm using a Cooper Bussman 759 automotive flasher (12v, 25amp, 3-6 bulb capable).

With a meter I can read 12v at both light tabs while one is flashing. I tried a new flasher but it does the same thing.
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Clayton Henderson
Beaumont, TX
RV-7 N454CH (Flying)
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  #9  
Old 06-25-2008, 10:30 PM
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hgerhardt hgerhardt is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: torrance, ca
Posts: 645
Default

The Cooper Bussman 759 appears to be a standard flasher, not a wig-wig flasher. Three terminals does not automatically make a wig-wag. You need a special wig-wag flasher.

Heinrich Gerhardt
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  #10  
Old 06-26-2008, 02:28 PM
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Bruce Reynolds Bruce Reynolds is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Salem, Oregon
Posts: 54
Default Try this one

I have the one that is intregal with the switch, but if you already have a switch, this should work as good. Mine works great.

http://www.periheliondesign.com/wigwagmnl.htm

Bruce Reynolds
RV-6A
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