Fuel tank sealing

[Douglas]

Can you use to much ProSeal? I trying to be neat, but I still get this stuff everywhere. I've clean off any areas outside tank and in areas that will be assembled later, but do I need to clean off spots and smears on the inside tank walls ? I ended up with blobs on the rivets and the Popsicle stick not the neatest thing to work with. Bottom line I've got the ribs and rivets sealed it just doesn't look pretty. Is that a problem???

[wirejock]

Originally Posted by Douglas

Can you use to much ProSeal? I trying to be neat, but I still get this stuff everywhere. I've clean off any areas outside tank and in areas that will be assembled later, but do I need to clean off spots and smears on the inside tank walls ? I ended up with blobs on the rivets and the Popsicle stick not the neatest thing to work with. Bottom line I've got the ribs and rivets sealed it just doesn't look pretty. Is that a problem???

Eyes of the beholder. No one will behold it so function is what matters.
I suppose it's possible but it's just a little weight.
Make sure the fillets are uniform and completely seal the flanges. Make sure each shop head is sealed. The toothpick swirl method works well on shop heads. Wipe off any globs that could break loose and call it good. Before closing the baffle, triple check every connection and the plumbing.

[diamond]

I posed a similar question to a Vans rep at Oshkosh one year. He sarcastically replied, "make sure you leave a little room in there for fuel"

[Mike S]

Douglas---welcome aboard the good ship VAF

Larry pretty much nailed it below.

Originally Posted by wirejock

Eyes of the beholder. No one will behold it so function is what matters.
I suppose it's possible but it's just a little weight.
Make sure the fillets are uniform and completely seal the flanges. Make sure each shop head is sealed. The toothpick swirl method works well on shop heads. Wipe off any globs that could break loose and call it good. Before closing the baffle, triple check every connection and the plumbing.

[az_gila]

A syringe with the exit hole drilled to #30 might work better than a popsicle stick.

This is a typical small one from your local hobby store -

http://www.hobbico.com/tools/hcar3785.php

[Robin8er]

Why cant you just seal the rivet holes? that's where its going to leak, besides the back part that seals the tank.

[Billythekid]

After the ribs and ends have been sealed up, with tank in cradle would it be ok to fill the tank with water just to confirm no leaks. If leak free proceed to remove the water and let things dry.. Of course and then prepare for baffle assembly. I'm not near this point in my build. Just thinking . I will not learn if I don't ask.

[Robin8er]

Vans sells a fuel tank test kit. I think its a much better option than using water.

http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/...duct=tank-test

[Av8torTom]

Doug,

Read this thread carefully.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...hlight=fay+fan

I don't know which technique you're using, but the proseal the fay surfaces and cleco together technique is a neater way to go. That way you're not putting down sealant AND riveting at the same time. Proseal and cleco everything together and THEN rivet a day or two days later.

[Rupester]

ProSeal is like roofing cement .... it goes EVERYwhere but where you want it to go.