Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1963
Greg, I swapped for the same battery.
you could add a small chunk of aluminum angle at the bottom, a few wraps of tape so it doesn't dig into the battery case, and screw into it thru the existing angle...several ways to tackle this.
the WAAAAAAIIIT! is because the engine heat caused the lid of the 925 to curl, and several of the vents popped off! no acid lost, thankfully, and the battery is still cranking a couple years later....but you DO have to restrain that lid! I added a big square chunk of aluminum sheet, wedged in place by the rod of my batt hold down brace. It doesn't need to exert any pressure, just keep the lid flat in the heat!
good luck, you'll like how that 925 cranks in the cold!
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My battery is located behind the aft baggage section so engine heat is not much of an issue.
However as this photo shows:
The lugs would get shorted out by the baggage compartment door.
The battery came with hex headed bolts which have the smaller diameter shank which threads into the battery body. In the picture below, the hex bolts are on the left and the lug extenders I bought are on the right. The hex head has been unscrewed - it can be tightened down snugly. In the middle are the two pieces for comparison. The lug extenders have the smaller diameter shank to go into the battery but the larger diameter shank to handle the battery cable lug.
What I'm wondering is if using the hex bolt on the left, along with a flat washer and lock washer will work. The hole in the cable lug is larger than the hex bolt diameter, but I wouldn't think that would be much of a problem.
If I can use the hex bolt and if I line the baggage door with more rubber, then the problem of the battery being shorted out is alleviated.
But I want to know if that's a safe, good, electrical connection.