AeroLED Trouble Shooting

[Auburntsts]

I believe the d-sub pins/sockets are designed for 20-24 ga wire. They can certainly handle the max current for those guages. For 18ga you might have to use pins/sockets made for CPC connectors which are come in sizes for larger guage wires and can handle the commensurate larger current loads.

[RVDan]

Dsub pins are typically rated at 5A with 20 gage pins. The ones manufactured to Mil are rated at 7.5A with 20 gage pins and 20 gage wire.

But why not use the Deutsch DTM series connectors that are weather sealed, use crimp pins and cost about the same?

[jnmeade]

Originally Posted by RVDan

Dsub pins are typically rated at 5A with 20 gage pins. The ones manufactured to Mil are rated at 7.5A with 20 gage pins and 20 gage wire.

But why not use the Deutsch DTM series connectors that are weather sealed, use crimp pins and cost about the same?

Does the Deutsch DTM take a special crimping tool, and if so, what does it cost and does it work for all pin configurations?

[RVDan]

Originally Posted by jnmeade

Does the Deutsch DTM take a special crimping tool, and if so, what does it cost and does it work for all pin configurations?

I use the same crimped as the Dsubs. B&C and others have a crimp tool with an adjustable depth setting that works for both. They are #20 pins.

[Dean_aeroleds]

Originally Posted by Taildrgr

A question for the experts:

What is the current capacity of a standard Dsub pin like the ones that Stein sells?

I used molex connectors for my Aeroled Pulsar NS and Aerosun VX lights because of the 5 amp each max draw and 18 Ga wire.

I'd like to change to Dsub pins if they can handle the 5 amp current.

Digikey is a great resource for finding information on electronic and electrical parts, such as datasheets and ratings. Here is a typical 9 pin D-Sub that has a 5 Amp rating found on Digikey: http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...09ME-ND/858099

[Jesse]

Originally Posted by Dean_aeroleds

The nav and strobe circuits share a common ground. For both functions to be having a problem like this, the most likely cause is a resistive ground connection, which could be a bad crimp or a dirty or pushed pin connection in the connector, or a bad connection to the aircraft ground. If in doubt, remove the light and bench test it using a 12 V battery. Make sure that the ground pin in the connector isn't dirty. If you want to bypass the connector you can use metal pins to poke through the insulation on the wires themselves to get to the conductors for a direct to wire test.

This is exactly what I was going to suggest. Try grounding that black wire locally and see if it changes...and then I finish reading the thread and see you've already fixed it. I use D-subs for up to 5A. If more is needed, you could split an 18AWG wire to 2 20AWG's, 2 pins, then back to 18AWG on the other side of the connector.