RV-6A buying questions

[Kyle Boatright]

Originally Posted by Dugaru

Obviously I've come to the right place. Would retrofitting an autopilot in a 6A be painful surgery, or is it fairly straightforward?

If you're handy, it'll take a weekend. If you've done it before and are handy, you can do it in a day.

[WenEng]

Originally Posted by Dugaru

So of course I'm still asking

1. I confess I don't know much about wooden props. Are they suitable for IFR work? I end up in light rain pretty often......

If you're in rain often, wood props won't work long term. Think FP metal and you won't regret it.

Installing autopilot in an existing airplane is straightforward and you could do it unless you're not comfortable drilling, riveting, cutting.

[Dugaru]

Many thanks for the info. My partner in building the Zenith 801 probably thinks I'm TOO comfortable drilling, riveting, and cutting.

Originally Posted by WenEng

If you're in rain often, wood props won't work long term. Think FP metal and you won't regret it.

Installing autopilot in an existing airplane is straightforward and you could do it unless you're not comfortable drilling, riveting, cutting.

[lr172]

Comments in-line

Originally Posted by Dugaru

So of course I'm still asking

1. I confess I don't know much about wooden props. Are they suitable for IFR work? I end up in light rain pretty often.

Prop tape seems to work for many. I have a composite and added prop tape. No real time in the rain yet, but Catto says it stops the erosion.

2. I think I could go either way with respect to CS or FP props, so that factor probably wouldn't rule candidates out one way or the other. I can live with the performance of a FP and I suppose they're a bit cheaper to operate over time.

Don't need to "live with it." My 160HP with Catto FP cruises at 190 MPH (8 GPH). It doesn't climb like a CS, but I still get 1400 FPM.

2. From what I've read the tip-up/slider debate doesn't seem to be a game changer, but I'm ready to be convinced otherwise.

3. Having flown for years behind a 160 O-320, that seems like sort of a natural choice, especially since the RV carries slightly less fuel than the Warrior. Again, I suspect I could be talked into the right plane with an O-360.

4. I'm almost completely indifferent to cosmetics. I consider this a major advantage as a buyer.

Overall, I think I'm probably looking for at least basic IFR (steam gauges and ancient, though certified, GPS would be fine).

I'm reasonably confident I can't live without a 2-axis autopilot, but I haven't the foggiest idea how hard it might be to retrofit one. Fortunately $-Tec won't be the only game in town.

Most, including myself, won't recommend IFR without it. Plane is very pitch sensitive and very easy to lose or gain 100's of feet in altitude just tuning a radio (adding to this issue is the elevator trim isn't as fine as it should be and therefore time consuming to get just right). You can easily add these without much effort for $1500.

Thanks to all for the great info!!

[Dugaru]

That seems like terrific info and wise counsel on props and autopilots. I really appreciate it.

[Red Voodoo]

Dugaru,

You should go to https://www.vansaircraft.com/ and click on the "Support" button. In the drop-down menu click on "Service Information/Revisions" and go to the RV-6/6A page. About halfway down that page, look for "Buying a Flying RV". Only two pages, but lots of useful information.

[1flyingyogi]

Hi Rob. I'm also looking for an RV6 to buy (tail-wheel preferred), and wanted to ask you if you saw a difference in noise level after you put in full carpet in the interior. I really don't like the feel of bare aluminum inside the cockpit and prefer a quieter cockpit and wanted to see if you can tell a difference after installing the carpet.

Brian

Originally Posted by rolivi

I purchased last March. Glad I did!

Since you've decided on a 6, and where you want that pesky third wheel, you've got some things left to consider:

Engine: 150/160/180
Prop: FP/CS Wood/Metal 2 or 3 blade
Canopy: Tip-up/Slider
Panel: Steam/Glass
Interior: Basic cloth and metal OR Awesome leather and full carpet/leather side panels
Paint: basic OR superflashy

How much do you want in your as-purchased vs after purchase adds?

For me, I BOUGHT a nice RV-6A, 160hp, FP wood 2 blade, Tipper with partial glass, VFR only.

It is now a very nice RV-6A, 160hp, FP Catto 3 blade, Tipper with glass for PFD and steam engine gauges, IFR capable, and Awesome leather and carpet everywhere. Sometime before 2020 it will be full glass

So with that example of deciding what you want to look for, you can do a lot of websurfing (TradeAPlane, Barnstormers, VAF ) and you'll find some candidates.

A good pre-buy is key. Depending on where the bird currently flies it can be easy or a little of an issue to find someone to do it right. There's often someone looking on this forum for pre-buys.

Also of importance: check those operating limitations.

Enjoy the search and ask, ask, ask.

[gasman]

Originally Posted by WenEng

The RV6 was the last "make a lot yourself" model. Quality will naturally vary. Granted, there are later pre punched versions and quick build fuselages, etc, but I can personally attest to factory mistakes there too. I fixed four quickbuild assembly errors on my own RV6-A fuselage. It's a great airplane and you'll get a lot for your money. Just get a pre buy inspection. Vans Aircraft lists service bulletins for each model.

Yes, it was the last model that you actually had to build. You learn how lay out rivets and make parts with raw materials...... You also get the plans that show you how to make every part on the airframe..... A big help if the kit builder is no longer around.

Mistakes can be made by anybody on any kit, even on a 7 kit that you just assemble by following the instruction sheets that Vans provides.

Find someone that has built and maintained the model that you are interested in purchasing and have them inspect it.

[posterman]

Having built one 6A, working on a second, and a third on the shelf, and having some experience with a few 7's and helping rebuild a poorly constructed but not completed 8 my two cents is to spend the money for a pre-purchase inspection by a well experienced RV builder and flyer - they are around and can be found.

We have a good one here at O85, whom I can put you in touch with, and there are several in TX and along the East Coast to name a few. At the very least, a pre-purchase inspection by a well qualified individual will either keep you from purchasing a wreck, help you negotiate a better price, or tell you not to wait and make an offer now.

There are good 6's and 6A's out there - I think you will find, as others have, that using available inspection resources is money well spent.

[flytoday]

Purchased my -6A over four years ago. Approaching 500 hours of flight. Great plane. This happened and I was grounded for 18 months. Bolt failed holding nose strut into collar. A nose wheel bracket installed backwards. Same event has happened to other -6A planes. During repairs, due to cost, I went from metal CS to Catto composite 3-blade FP prop. Still flies fast!! More info about bracket and failure available on VAF.

Added Trio Pro Pilot 2-axis autopilot at Jay Pratt's shop (RV Central) over a weekend. It is great!