Removing primer from 'glass'

[AAflyer]

In my haste to "keep moving forward", I think I now need to move backward. After fitting, bonding and riveting my canopy skirt to my -8 slider, I gave it a quick coat of primer/filler. Unfortunately the SIKA didn't quite squeeze out to fill all gaps where the fiberglass meets the canopy plexi (although, I don't think my Todd's canopy is really plexiglass). Back then?it was "good enough, but now I'd like to get these gaps filled and put a smooth fillet on this edge.
Any suggestions on solvents or mechanical removal procedures in order to ensure a solid bond for the fillet. Obviously, this is purely cosmetic, but I don't want the fillet material to pop out. This is being done in preparation for final painting.

[DanH]

Probably a lot of ways to skin that cat. I'd wrap a tongue depressor in 220~400 sandpaper and use the edge to sand along the joint. That should leave a roughened strip about 1/16 wide on the plexiglass, with a similar strip on the edge of the fiberglass.

Or...don't do anything now. At some point you'll need to start working toward a nice clean edge where the finish paint laps onto the plexiglass:



It's pretty much done with fineline tape and making tape:



However, seems to me that I've seen some canopies where the builder buried the paint edge under a filet of material, after painting. The visual result is a narrow accent stripe along the plexiglass edge, like the rubber seals around an automotive window. To do it, I'd try running fineline tape where I wish to define both edges of the filet, wipe it in so the edges are only tape-thick, then pull the tape as soon as I think it won't be too gooey.

[AAflyer]

Thanks for your response, Dan. Traditionally, does every paint job require a clear-coat? If so, I assume that it will need to lap over the edge of the finish coat, correct?
Is there such a thing as a "rattle-can clear coat"?

[lr172]

Originally Posted by AAflyer

Thanks for your response, Dan. Traditionally, does every paint job require a clear-coat? If so, I assume that it will need to lap over the edge of the finish coat, correct?
Is there such a thing as a "rattle-can clear coat"?

Depends on the paint system. You have single-stage (no clear coat) or base/clear. In the later, the same tape lines are used for both the base and the clear coats. It is not typical to re-tape to get the clear to finish the edge of the line. This does not create an inherent weakness.

Larry