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  #31  
Old 01-01-2016, 09:42 PM
jay.pearlman jay.pearlman is offline
 
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Location: Port Angeles WA
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Default Crescent

Ted,
My airspeed may be high. Do you have a picture of the crescent you put on your plane in front of the static port? When you tried different shapes, how much impact did you see?
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  #32  
Old 01-03-2016, 08:42 AM
Vac Vac is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Niceville, Florida
Posts: 434
Default "Crescent" dimensions

Jay,

I used paper hole re-inforcements cut in half--you know, the kind you buy at the Office Depot that we used to use in the last century when you accidentally pulled a sheet out of a three-ring binder and tore the holes...back in the days when we were using white out on the computer screen . I simply stuck 'em to the fuselage ahead of my originally flush ports.

If you suspect fast, put the "crescent" behind the static port. My data showed a nominal 1/2 MPH bias per layer. You could run a quick evaluation by making a quick known power run at say 4K, landing, sticking on four layers or so, and the repeating the speed run under similar conditions and noting any delta...then you can decide if its worth testing further to quantify. If you have good corrected speed data for your current static configuration, then you can skip the first step.

If you decide you want to peel the onion back farther, drop me an e-mail and I'll share a spread sheet that will do the math with your GPS speed run and ground test data. To use it, you'll need to know the instrument error for your altimeter (that may be available from a pitot/static check or on the 8130 that came from the instrument shop with the altimeter if it's a conventional type) and your airspeed indicator instrument error (that can be determined by building a simple manometer--google "checking your airspeed error" or something similar to pull up some good advice on how to go about this). Bottom line is that you have to have instrument error data before you flight test. If you've got an EFIS, it's likely the airspeed error is negligible. If you do have an EFIS, be careful with ground testing--improperly applying pitot pressure can ruin the calibration on the transducers since most systems utilize pitot/static input as part of the attitude algorithm. Most manufacturer's publish guidance on how to conduct a pitot/static check that may provide some additional insight.

To flight test, standard 3 leg GPS airspeed runs at known power settings will suffice. The objective is to bias flow around the port tor reduce CAS and altitude errors as much as practical.

After quite a bit of testing, I determined simply offsetting the static source away from the fuse worked best (that's why the pop rivet design works well in RV's). I ended up retrofitting Cleveland ports which mimic the rivet dimensions as do the new safe air ports (based on a photo earlier in this thread). I also suspect a conventional Cessna-type port that stands proud of the fuselage would give good results as well.

Likely more info that you need, if so disregard. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to drop a line.

Good luck,

Vac
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Last edited by Vac : 01-03-2016 at 03:57 PM.
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  #33  
Old 01-03-2016, 10:38 AM
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GalinHdz GalinHdz is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jay.pearlman View Post
Ted,
My airspeed may be high. Do you have a picture of the crescent you put on your plane in front of the static port? When you tried different shapes, how much impact did you see?
Correct me if I'm wrong but if your IAS is higher than it should be then the crescent goes behind the port. If your IAS is lower than it should then the crescent goes in front of the static port.

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  #34  
Old 01-03-2016, 10:43 AM
Jrskygod Jrskygod is offline
 
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Location: Edinburg, TX
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Jay - I used paper hole reinforcements cut in half as Vac did. I got similar measured results. The only way you can get it accurate is by flight testing the plane especially with autopilot altitude hold and at the same density altitude. An EFIS and accurate engine power information is super helpful. Make absolutly sure your static system is leak free.

Fly the plane, collect the data, do the spread sheet calculation, add more to the stack height of the crescents, fly again etc., etc., etc. till its spot on. If you get it within a knot or two that's probably as close as your gonna get without precise measuring equipment and data logging. Every plane will be different. I used to think I had a fast RV9 until I calibrated the airspeed.
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  #35  
Old 01-03-2016, 10:53 AM
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GalinHdz GalinHdz is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrskygod View Post
If you get it within a knot or two that's probably as close as your gonna get without precise measuring equipment and data logging. Every plane will be different.
Out of curiosity, how close to the calculated speed have people been able to get? I got mine to within 2kt but wonder if this is close enough for practical purposes especially since it also affects altitude indications.

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Last edited by GalinHdz : 01-03-2016 at 10:56 AM.
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  #36  
Old 01-03-2016, 03:56 PM
Vac Vac is offline
 
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Location: Niceville, Florida
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Default Whoops

Galin,

You are correct, Sir. Corrected my post above!

Cheers,

Vac
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  #37  
Old 01-03-2016, 04:00 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
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Location: US
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vac View Post
Jay,

I used paper hole re-inforcements cut in half--you know, the kind you buy at the Office Depot that we used to use in the last century when you accidentally pulled a sheet out of a three-ring binder and tore the holes...
LOL! My buddy calls these "paper butts".
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  #38  
Old 01-07-2016, 12:35 PM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is online now
 
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Location: Plano, TX
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My solution was to buy two extra fuel tank drain flanges from Vans (can't recall the P/N right now). I pro-sealed and riveted those to the inside of the skin and installed the pop-rivet as usual with a little pro-seal under the head. Now I have a nice 1/8" NPT fitting on the inside and the default pop-rivet on the outside. Seems like the best of both worlds to me. if I were to do it again, I would probably skip the rivets and just bond the flange in place.


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  #39  
Old 01-07-2016, 03:28 PM
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Lynnb Lynnb is offline
 
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Location: Cedar Hill, TX
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Colin,

That looks great. I think I've about decided to do something similier and grind the safeair ports flat, drill them for the pop rivet and just proseal them to the skim and insert the rivet from the outside for the profile.

Lynn

Quote:
Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels View Post
My solution was to buy two extra fuel tank drain flanges from Vans (can't recall the P/N right now). I pro-sealed and riveted those to the inside of the skin and installed the pop-rivet as usual with a little pro-seal under the head. Now I have a nice 1/8" NPT fitting on the inside and the default pop-rivet on the outside. Seems like the best of both worlds to me. if I were to do it again, I would probably skip the rivets and just bond the flange in place.


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  #40  
Old 01-07-2016, 05:03 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Colin, I did similar but the flange idea is great.
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