Stewart Systems Aircraft Finishing Systems

[RomeoVictor6]

Hi all;

Has anybody heard of Stewart Systems "breakthrough" coatings which are not "water-based" but waterborne. No VOC solvents. Water is added only as a carrier, to reduce the viscosity of the solids to allow the coatings to be sprayed. When dry, they say it is impossible to distinguish between their coatings and the other two or three top solvent-based paints.

They have aluminum etcher, primer/sealer, and top coats.

I really like the concept but as usual the devil is in the details and or results.

I'm looking for any feedback or experience with these products.

www.stewartsystems.aero

Thanks

San Diego Mike
RV-6A
Empenage almost complete

[Rick_A]

The company use to be called AFS (Aircraft Finishing Systems). You can find a number of posts on the forum regarding AFS. I used their Primer which I was happy with when I first started using it and I'm still using it on some stuff. A few months ago I got some AZKO 2 part expoxy which I like better.

I did my interior with the AFS 2 part paint which I found very difficult to use. It would start to coagulate before I finishing spraying just a few ounces. I probably threw out as much as I used

[fstringham7a]

Mike

I used their matertials to do the prep / prime / painting of my 7A interior.
I plan on using the two part to paint the exterior.
Great stuff....no fuss .... no muss.... NO DEADLY CHEMICALS.....leaves a very strong, beautiful coat.
It does apply differently then VOC type paint.

Luck and success

Frank @ SGU and SLC wiring....fiberglassing.....$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

[DGlaeser]

I've been using their primer since I started building (July 05) and like it a lot. It is very tough - for instance, I primed my wing ribs before dimpling and nothing chipped or flaked off. I just used the cheap sprayer Van's sells for priming such parts.

I've just started using their 2 part finish paint on my Tipup Frame and interior. On my first attempt I applied the paint too heavily - for 2 reasons. First I was using a gun with a 1.5mm tip (1.2 or 1.3 recommended). Secondly, when you apply the initial coat - a light fog coat per the instructions, you don't get full coverage - it goes on 'splotchy' (don't be put off by my technical jargon :-). So on subsequent coats I was sure to get full coverage, and that was a mistake. I spoke to Dan Stewart and he explained that their paint goes on a LOT differently than 'regular' paint. The 'splotchy' coverage is normal, and you have to resist the urge to get full coverage until the 3rd coat, and sometimes a 4th is needed.

The problem with my heavy application is that the finish was not mirror smooth, it looked like there was a light sprinkle of sand on the surface. The paint dries VERY shiny - it has the 'wet' look when dry.

I've subsequently sanded down the areas I've painted, but the OAT here in Michigan has recently gone WAY down (20's), so I'm on hold for a while for re-painting. I'm also waiting to get a different sprayer (my son has an HVLP system - in ABQ).

I believe once I use lighter coats and the smaller nozzle, I will get a spectacular finish.

[fstringham7a]

Dennis

As I mentioned in my post I have not as yet shot the 2 part, so did you have the same problem Rick had and if so how did you over come the problem.

Frank @ SGU and SLC

[thallock]

Initially, I started priming my empenage with SW-988 and enamel top coat. Then I thought about painting my empennage pieces while waiting for my wing kit to arrive. When I had problems getting information for PPG and SW paints, I found the AFS website. Since they have actual instructions and information on how to apply their paints, along with an on-line color chart, I ordered 3 quarts of two-part poly urethane and a gallon of primer. Before my wing kit came in, I managed to do a little expeimentation with the primer and painting my fiberglass parts using the two-part polyurethane.

The primer is extremely easy to work with and has the added convenience of being able to pour the unused paint back into the bottle. There's no mixing, and water cleanup is a big bonus. It does not dry as fast as the SW-988, but it dries fast enough (something like 15-30 minutes here in Texas, as opposed to 2 minutes with the SW-988). After six months, it was possible to remove the primer with MEK and a little elbow grease. I could wipe the parts with Lacquer thinner without removing the primer. However, if I used enough Lacquer thinner and rubbed long enough, it would come off. It does not chip easily, and is fairly scratch resistant.

When I tried to paint the fiberglass parts with the two-part polyuretuane, I had a few problems. I had small circles (probably due to a contamination problem in my air tank), and severe runs. After sanding off the first attempt, my next attempt was much better, but I still had problems with the paint running. Where I did not have runs, the red metal flake was absolutely beautiful. At that time, I also painted my trim tab (several times), with mixed results. One note, if you let the two-part polyurethane dry overnight, it is very, very hard to sand off. The AFS polyurethane produces a very hard surface with a nice glass finish, when applied properly.

After these experiments, I was convinced that I could paint my own airplane, but it would take a bit of practice to get it right. After finishing my wings, I managed to paint the horizontal stabilizor before starting on the fuselage. I got a few tips from Andy Karmy, and another builder who painted his whole plane using AFS. I got pretty good results on the HS, but I still had a little orange peel. I should note, that by this time, the paint was beyond its shelf-life, but it still seemed to work.

I think the key with the AFS two-part polyurethane is to get a light fog coat that you let almost dry, then apply a little heavier second coat, followed by a fairly heavy third coat. Try to keep the surface horizontal after applying each coat to avoid runs. I think this advice would probably apply to just about any polyurethane, but the AFS does take some practice.

I am into the fourth year on my RV-7A, and I still have nearly a quart of the original gallon of primer. I primed everyting except for the skins on my wings, I primed the bulkheads and the centersection ribs on the fuselage, but not much else. This is way past its shelf life, but still seems to be working, I just have to breakup the stuff on the bottom before using it. Don't worry, I'll buy a new gallon before painting the outside.

In summary, I really like the AFS paint. The primer is easy to deal with, and is fairly durable. The two-part polyurethane takes a little practice (ok, maybe a lot) to get right, but produces very good results. It is supposed to be better for you (or less harmful) than most of the other paints, but who really knows. My calibrated nose says the primer is definitely less harmful than the SW-988, but that's just my opinion, I'm not a chemist.

I should note, that I have not had any coagulation problems with the AFS paints.

Tracy.

[akarmy]

Here's a link to all my painting info and pictures working with AFS.

http://flying.karmy.com/?cat=3

[thallock]

Andy,

I knew that you had done all of your fiberglass yourself, which appeared to came out really nice. Then all of a sudden, I saw that you had your plane painted by someone else. So, did you have them shoot the rest of the airplane with AFS?

BTW, it looks great.

Tracy.

[akarmy]

Originally Posted by thallock

did you have them shoot the rest of the airplane with AFS?

In the end NO... I figured that since I didn't have the location to paint a fully assembled airplane, that I would take it to a shop. Then I didn't want to push a new paint and process on them while expecting a good paint job with new materials. So they stripped down my AFS work and painted it with Dupont Base / Clear.

It really does look nice, but I originally liked the idea using something a bit different as it's fun to talk about new options with folks.

Good luck with whatever you decide on. Just know that no matter what the product, it's a ton of work and practice to paint and airplane. (as most anyone who has done it will tell you).