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  #1  
Old 10-05-2015, 06:44 AM
atalla atalla is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Whistler BC
Posts: 207
Default Building the practice toolbox. Video

Hey all.
Iv through a video together of some work to the practice tool box. I am making lots of mistakes such as contacting the hinges while setting rivits, under dimpling, burrs in holes after dimpling just to name a few. I'd love feedback from all you and your going to find more I'm sure. I will continue with the build and move onto the control surface once I work out some bugs.

http://youtu.be/aFa6XbD-YTQ

Enjoy
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  #2  
Old 10-05-2015, 08:08 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Tool box

Andrew. Cool video. Noobies may want to see that.
Flip the dies on your DRDT. Male on bottom. That helps keep debris from contaminating the female die.
Vans has noobies dimple the hinge but that's rarely done on the plane because it warps the hinge. Plane hinges are countersinked. No big deal on the tool box. Maybe I don't remember but I thought the hinge was higher.
In general, you adjust dimple dies so they touch but I use a c-frame.
Should be a nice tool box. Mine was ugly. Gave it away.
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  #3  
Old 10-05-2015, 08:44 AM
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AndyRV7 AndyRV7 is offline
 
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Location: Hudson County, NJ
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Default

Looks like a nice video. I am wondering if you can build the box with just a rivet squeezer. I've wanted to try it but I don't have a compressor or any air tools. What do you think?

And as a non-builder, I like the suggestion of flipping the dimple dies. It should remove that awkward need to kind of drop the piece as the male die comes down to meet the female.

Andy
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  #4  
Old 10-05-2015, 01:43 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Whistler BC
Posts: 207
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Andrew. Cool video. Noobies may want to see that.
Flip the dies on your DRDT. Male on bottom. That helps keep debris from contaminating the female die.
Vans has noobies dimple the hinge but that's rarely done on the plane because it warps the hinge. Plane hinges are countersinked. No big deal on the tool box. Maybe I don't remember but I thought the hinge was higher.
In general, you adjust dimple dies so they touch but I use a c-frame.
Should be a nice tool box. Mine was ugly. Gave it away.
I'm so glad you mentioned the hinges. Mine did warp along the spine and on its flat. I was able to correct the flat face by hand but I didn't notice the spine warp until I put the pin in. The door flexes when you open and close it. Not too happy with it but rather this than an aileron. I used a pheumatic squeezer not a drdt but yes I will flip the dies.

What is the procedure for cleaning out a hole that has been drilled to size but gets bunged up during dimpling? Should I just run the #40 through it again? In this case the part was partially riveted to I was worried about the lack of deburing.
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  #5  
Old 10-05-2015, 01:45 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Whistler BC
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyRV7 View Post
Looks like a nice video. I am wondering if you can build the box with just a rivet squeezer. I've wanted to try it but I don't have a compressor or any air tools. What do you think?

And as a non-builder, I like the suggestion of flipping the dimple dies. It should remove that awkward need to kind of drop the piece as the male die comes down to meet the female.

Andy
I only have a 3" yoke if I had a 4" everything except the Handel would be doable I think.
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  #6  
Old 10-06-2015, 02:37 PM
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clevtool clevtool is offline
 
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Location: Boone, Iowa
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Default

Two things I noticed. First, the dies are not 'tight' enough. You really can't over squeeze dimple dies with a single piston squeezer. Tighten until they touch, let off the pressure (unplug the air) then tighten another half turn. There should be no distortion of the 'skin' around the dimple, only the dimple itself. Second the ram to the squeezer jumps up far to quickly. I don't know if that is how you are pressing the lever, or if the ram is tight in the yoke?? It should move up to the rivet very slowly if you press slow, which makes the whole process more controllable.
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  #7  
Old 10-06-2015, 06:12 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Whistler BC
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Default

Thanks for your input mike. I am using a foot pedal and this is eliminates the feathering action of the squeezer. I agree with you and do think I'm under dimpling. I set the dies by bringing them into contact with the work Peice tightly and than adding a half turn to the set holder. I will try your method for the remainder of the build.

Cheers. Andrew.
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  #8  
Old 10-06-2015, 09:37 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Bunged up

If a rivet won't go through, run a bit through by hand.
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Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #9  
Old 10-09-2015, 03:00 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Location: 45G, Brighton, MI
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Default

I prefer the male dimple die on top, at least with the DRDT-2, and with a mounted pneumatic squeezer. It prevents the scratches on the outer surface you get when you "search" for the hole. I've never had a problem with debris in the female die.
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2015, 09:49 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Whistler BC
Posts: 207
Default Part 2.

Part 2 is out with some more questions as well as i walk through some more errors

https://youtu.be/6jzCFUmR2Rw

Thoughts?
Andrew
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