NipponDenso Alternator

[BillL]

Originally Posted by rvsxer

The Nippondenso P/N 210-0237 (Lester #14757) fits a 1987-89 Honda Civic with A/C and is rated for 55 amps. It is internally regulated and turns the "correct" way. You can add one of Bob Nuckolls' over voltage modules or do what I did to modify the alternator for an external regulator: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles...Conversion.pdf

As supplied the alternator has a 3-groove, 15mm ID pulley but you can change that. You may also have to change the spacer arrangement on the mount for proper pulley alignment.

The only other thing I did was stabilize the stator wires that go to the diode assy with some thick glue-filled shrink tubing.

Seems like a lot of work but it was kind of a "science-fair" project for me. The alternator was $85 at O'Reilly's, with a lifetime warranty. Pulleys and other parts can be had at: https://www.alternatorparts.com/

Nice work Mike! Did this one have the wrapped and screwed stator connections or just the eyelet? Note - this looks like the PP but uses the 110mm dia stator (not 100mm). Do you know if it clears the prop oil tube with the PP bracket? Or did you use a different bracket? A diff bracket might help us PP users with additional clearance too. Also since the pivot incorporates the rear housing, it is wider than the PP, so a new spacer appears to be needed. Amazing how these alternator designs are scaled.

[rvsxer]

Bill,

The stator connections were the eyelet type. I had a few wires break at the stator windings from vibration but stabilizing the wiring fixed that. I have a fixed pitch prop so I don't know about the oil tube clearance. Also, I happen to have the small Lycoming pulley so the stock driven pulley works.

My original alternator was the Van's 35 amp unit and I used a B&C LR3 regulator. That's why I stayed with external regulation. If I was replacing a PP alternator I'd have just made arrangements for overvoltage or runaway protection and used the built-in regulator.

I have to say I can't totally disagree with the idea of just going with a PP or B&C alternator to get a new unit, especially for IFR flying or battery ignition. I had fun making this work, though.

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Originally Posted by lr172

I don't have my alt number handy. I looked at the 14184, but needed more capacity. There were some good cross-reference tools out there that let me jump across different models. Finally settled on a a late 80' vintage Honda model. Then found a variety of alternators that would work in that configuration, both CW and CCW. I ended up with a 50 amp CCW externally regulated with a larger V pulley (larger is better for us airplane guys with larger crank pulleys). I paid about $40 on Amazon.

.....

I will grab the alt # tomorrow if I go to the plane.

Larry

Hi Larry-
I still prefer the idea of external regulation so I'd definitely be interested in knowing what model # alternator you used as well as what mounting system you used: Van's mount, PP mount, or something else entirely.

[snopercod]

Just adding this to the thread. The alternator is a 32A, from an 80s era Toyota. I'm using a B&C LR-2 external regulator. I'm thinking of putting a larger dia. pulley on it when I get a round tuit.

[gasman]

Originally Posted by lr172

I don't have my alt number handy. I looked at the 14184, but needed more capacity. There were some good cross-reference tools out there that let me jump across different models. Finally settled on a a late 80' vintage Honda model. Then found a variety of alternators that would work in that configuration, both CW and CCW. I ended up with a 50 amp CCW externally regulated with a larger V pulley (larger is better for us airplane guys with larger crank pulleys). I paid about $40 on Amazon.

Most all auto engines turn CW (viewed from drivers seat) and most turn the alternator the same direction. Our Lyc engines turn CCW. YOu want a CCW alt if you can. A CW will still pull some air through it, so don't remove the fan. If it wasn't necessary, it wouldn't be there.

I will grab the alt # tomorrow if I go to the plane.

Larry

But from the pilots seat most lyc's turn CW also.............

[rv7charlie]

Alternators don't care which way they turn; the ones that have internal fans just blow air the other direction. If you use a blast tube, spin up the alt on the bench in the same direction it will turn in the a/c, to see which way the air is moving through it. Then point your blast tube to move air the same direction.

[rvsxer]

Originally Posted by snopercod

Just adding this to the thread. The alternator is a 32A, from an 80s era Toyota. I'm using a B&C LR-2 external regulator. I'm thinking of putting a larger dia. pulley on it when I get a round tuit.

I would leave the pulley alone. It looks like your ring gear pulley is the smaller one so it won't overspeed the alternator.

[snopercod]

Originally Posted by rvsxer

I would leave the pulley alone. It looks like your ring gear pulley is the smaller one so it won't overspeed the alternator.

Thank you. I didn't know the ring gear pulleys came in different sizes. I didn't want to mess with it anyway!

[664781]

Go to RockAuto.com and put in the Alternator p/n and it will pull up all the info you were asking for. Click on the p/n and it will give you which cars and trucks plus year.

[airtractor8]

Originally Posted by longline

is exactly what I have been trying to answer.

I would prefer 45 to 60 amp output, but the legacy ND seems to be limited to about 35 amps, and is often not a stock item. There seems to be some ND alternators that have screw connectors, vice the dreaded plug connectors, typically seen on some Chrysler/jeep products, but I have not found the magic number yet.

The local alternator shop has been less than helpful in this matter.

Delco Remy 14158 should do the trick http://www.delcoremy.com/product/product-details/14158

Or try Denso 2100244 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....167713&jsn=609