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11-24-2006, 11:53 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 433
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To rivet or glass in wing tip rib
I am working on my second set of wingtips for my 9A. Messed up the first set.
I want some advice on whether or not I can skip the rivets and fiberglass the stiffner rib that runs perpindicular to the cord of the wing near the trailing edge. Will it hold? or do I need rivets to keep the rib in place????
On my first set of wingtips I cracked the gellcoat around most of the rivets when I set them and I don't want to do that again.
Thanks,
Duane
__________________
Duane Wilson
RV9A. Built, flew 1000 hours, Sold
RV10 Built, flying 330 hours so far.
Central Oregon
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11-24-2006, 12:33 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Port Orange, Fl
Posts: 476
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I don't see why you could not glass them in. I suppose a couple of layer of glass matting w/resin over the flange should be fine. One down side is the dreaded weight issue. Don't forget though, if you plan on painting, a little body work and no one will know the difference. I just finished the tips on my 9A two weeks ago. I have the same problem with the gel coat cracking. I'll let the body shop take care of them. And befoe you trash the tips, fiberglass is very forgiving. Just put a layer of glass over your holes inside the tips and then fill the holes themselves outside with resin/flox, sand it smooth and you could start over.
Last edited by jlfernan : 11-24-2006 at 12:35 PM.
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11-24-2006, 01:22 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 872
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I wonder if using AN-426A rivets instead of AN-426AD rivets would solve the problem? "A" rivets are softer than "AD" rivets. Spruce sells 'em.
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Mark
RV-12iS Fuselage
RV-9A Project: Sold
VAF donation made for 2020
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11-24-2006, 01:53 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chandler, AZ
Posts: 2,901
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You're Okay
You're okay glassing the rib in, but I'd still do a couple of rivets to hold it in place while glassing. It's okay if the gel coat got cracked. A little filler and you'll be fine.
Also, you need to check for voids in the glass that are covered by the gel coat. If you don't find them now they will crack and a hole exposed. Definitely don't want this happening after paint. Use a bright light to find the voids. They are there!!!
__________________
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
www.JDair.com
RV-7 N717EE-Flying (Sold)
RV-7 N717AZ Flying, in paint
EMS Bell 407,
Eurocopter 350 A-Star Driver
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11-24-2006, 03:55 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,849
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Aren't you suppose to use pop rivets when attaching metal to fiberglass?
__________________
Todd
N110TD
RV-10 Vesta V8 LS2/BMA EFIS/One formerly flying at 3J1 Hobbs stopped at 150 hours
Savannah, GA and Ridgeland, SC
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11-24-2006, 04:13 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,587
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A deviation
When I did mine, I turned them around so the web was flush with the edge. I just figured it would be an aerodynamically cleaner way to go. That did require blind rivets, though. the good news is that they put a larger surface against the fiberglass. I don't see the point of adding weight with additional fiberglass.
__________________
H. Evan's RV-7A N17HH 240+ hours
"We can lift ourselves out of ignorance, we can find ourselves as creatures of excellence and intelligence and skill. We can be free! We can learn to fly!" -J.L. Seagull
Paid $25.00 "dues" net of PayPal cost for 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 (December).
This airplane is for sale: see website. my website
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