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  #91  
Old 08-08-2016, 10:02 AM
Bob Martin's Avatar
Bob Martin Bob Martin is offline
 
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Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,230
Default Nice

Nice pictures Stormy!
PROGRESS!
Very Clean Shop as well. Maybe it looks that way because of excellent lighting!
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Bob Martin
RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1200+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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  #92  
Old 08-08-2016, 10:33 AM
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majuro15 majuro15 is offline
 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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Default

Great looking shop!! I'm stealing a few ideas, mainly the rack holding all the control surfaces.
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  #93  
Old 08-08-2016, 10:47 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default Tim

I'll try to remember to get you a close-up. It's just verticals and arms of 2x2, with plywood gussets at the corners. Plenty of wood screws.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #94  
Old 08-08-2016, 08:24 PM
Chuck Hagerty Chuck Hagerty is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 105
Default

Love the pictures Bill...I'm reliving vicariously
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  #95  
Old 08-12-2016, 05:31 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default gotta trim something

Rudder skin edge hits rudder stop square on, both sides. Instructions say to file down the stops as needed for required deflection. To fix this, I think either notching the skins or filing the sides (vs. the contact surfaces) of the stop pieces will be necessary. Is it okay to file the rudder stops narrower first, to miss the skins, and then shorter if I need more travel?

Pic is looking up at the rudder stop from the floor.


Given the precision and parts uniformity Vans has achieved with prepunching, they must all be like this. Surprised the original shape of the rudder stops didn't take this interference into account.

Edit: Unless of course the rudder stops ARE shaped to avoid that, and are installed upside down and backwards. Drilling out the -4 rivets should be easy. Bucking the new ones, not so much.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug

Last edited by Bill Boyd : 08-12-2016 at 06:13 PM. Reason: found a builder error
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  #96  
Old 08-12-2016, 05:37 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default mystery solved

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Billet aluminum. Got separated from its bag-mates. From where I found it, I'd suspect section 11... no joy. Maybe I've been staring at these plans too long.

Can anyone ID this so I can tag it and bag it until I need it? Thanks!
It's a one-off custom rudder gust lock piece that fits inside the tailcone and provides a mount for eye bolts that stick out the sides. I think the rudder cables are supposed to pass through them and allow a locking device to be applied (maybe a slotted tube over the cables, between eye bolts and rudder horn, to lock them in compression). Made for the first builder by a friend.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #97  
Old 08-12-2016, 06:23 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post

Given the precision and parts uniformity Vans has achieved with prepunching, they must all be like this. Surprised the original shape of the rudder stops didn't take this interference into account.

Edit: Unless of course the rudder stops ARE shaped to avoid that, and are installed upside down and backwards. Drilling out the -4 rivets should be easy. Bucking the new ones, not so much.
Yep, I'm afraid you're right.
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  #98  
Old 08-12-2016, 07:25 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Default

Wasn't me

THIS time.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #99  
Old 08-12-2016, 07:35 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
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Location: Livermore, CA
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Default

BTW, some who had their rudder bang around have sheared those rivets. Using steel AN hardware may be easier for you at this point.
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  #100  
Old 08-13-2016, 07:30 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Default I was thinking the same thing

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobTurner View Post
BTW, some who had their rudder bang around have sheared those rivets. Using steel AN hardware may be easier for you at this point.
-given the inherent difficulty in bucking -4 rivets in the space between those two bearing brackets - one would almost have to use a flat blade screwdriver, or a drift punch through an enlarged hole in the opposite bracket.

One EarthX lithium battery in the standard battery location will easily offset the aft CG creep that is happening in my empennage building adventures as would the use of Eric's copper clad aluminum fatwire for the big run forward.

AN-3 bolts with spacers, in place of rivets, makes the most sense to me.
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Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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