Rebuild older vans fuel valve

[Scott Kelley]

Your valve has a brass spindle. Do you use mo-gas? I have seen nasty things with brass parts that have been exposed to gas with alcohol...

[Scott Kelley]

For the good of the order, I'll put in my two cents regarding these valves with plastic spindles, which also exhibit the sticking problem.

In at least one old post these valves were discussed and the suggestion was made to use a lighter spring in order to reduce the actuation force required. I simply shortened the spring in mine to obtain that result, with excellent results.

My valve - about 17 years old - was very sticky, requiring WAY too much force to turn it. I opened it up and found that the spindle was in good condition, and that it tightened up very significantly with small amounts of pressure pushing the valve spindle into the seat. I suspected two things of causing the sticky operation: parts worn together over years of use have more surface area in contact; and plastic that has become less slippery as it aged. Since it seats well after so many years of mating, and there were no signs of galling, I felt comfortable that the lighter spring solution would still provide good sealing. And since it had likely been used for quite some time while the substantial friction had required MUCH higher actuation force, I felt that the plastic spindle would hold up well into the future when that force was significantly reduced.

I can see lubricating the shaft of the valve to protect the o-ring that seals the shaft itself, but that will not fix the problem of the stiff valve. I find it hard to imagine that lubricating the spindle and seat interface would provide improvement in operation over any significant amount of time - that lubricant is not going to stay there, even if it is impervious to gasoline. And lubricant added to the gas for the sole purpose of improving the operation of this valve seems to me akin to emptying an oil tanker in the Gulf Of Mexico once in awhile because the locks in the Panama Canal are squeaky. It might help, but is hardly the most direct answer...

Lighten up the spring by cutting it shorter until you get a more appropriate amount of friction.

I strongly suggest that you do not continue to use these valves while they are difficult to turn. There have been failures of these valves, and I suspect that those failures would not have occurred if the valve actuation force was looked after.

[Scott Kelley]

I have spoken with the manufacturer of these valves - although it was not the subject of the conversation, it was made clear that they do not provide parts.

[sibriggs]

Just a note of caution for anyone new to using fuel lube. It does not dissolve in fuel by design, so when it's used in the fuel system be very careful to only rub on a very thin coating. Any extra globs my find there way into the carb or fuel injection and block fuel flow.

[jchang10]

Yeah, i tried to track down the manufacturer and didnt get very far myself. Instead of ordering the $50 part from Vans, like i did last time and guaranteed to work, i decided to try shopping around for alternatives. I ordered these 2 and will update when i get them to see if they work at all.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

Yes, definitely a very thin coating of fuel lube.

Cool, i will look into shortening the spring. Good idea. I dont think have a perfect seal around the plastic cone is a necessity per se. There are orings everywhere to keep the fuel contained even if the plastic cone isnt sealed tight. In fact, id argue its way better for the plastic cone to be loose than tight, otherwise, it is too easy to break.

[CATPart]

An overnight soaking in WD40 and the valve broke lose by hand. Looks pretty good. A little ez-lube and back in business. I will stick with this valve for now, it lasted 20 years. I think if it gets stuck again I may try some valve grinding compound to clean the mating surfaces. One thing I did was flip the detent plate because it looked a little worn. Now the clicks are a tiny bit more substantial. Here are pics of the pre lubed brass cone and body.

[krwalsh]

Originally Posted by jchang10

Unfortunately, my plastic cone inside broke again. I will use Fuel Lube going forward. However, anybody ever find a source for just the plastic cone? Otherwise, i will reorder the whole thing again just to use the plastic piece.

I have a Weatherhead valve in my "junk" box you may have. I torn it out recently to replace it with an Allen valve. The weatherhead has never been used, is currently lubes with Fuel Lube, and I think I even have the anodized red pointer for it. You're in the Bay Area, my project is at SQL, if you want it let me know and we can meet and I can hand it to you.

[erikpmort]

Thank you for this post everyone. Mine has gotten mor stiff recently and I will perform the maintenance thanks !

[BillL]

Originally Posted by jchang10

Yeah, i tried to track down the manufacturer and didnt get very far myself. Instead of ordering the $50 part from Vans, like i did last time and guaranteed to work, i decided to try shopping around for alternatives. I ordered these 2 and will update when i get them to see if they work at all.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00..._detailpages00

Yes, definitely a very thin coating of fuel lube.

Cool, i will look into shortening the spring. Good idea. I dont think have a perfect seal around the plastic cone is a necessity per se. There are orings everywhere to keep the fuel contained even if the plastic cone isnt sealed tight. In fact, id argue its way better for the plastic cone to be loose than tight, otherwise, it is too easy to break.

Another source.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?pid=56223