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  #11  
Old 08-19-2015, 07:25 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yen View Post
The quoted speeds are just about max speed for drills. There is no need to run anywhere near max speed and the drills will last longer at slower speeds, especially if you use a bit of lubricant.
+1

And don't forget the BoeLube - when drilling steel or thick aluminium.
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  #12  
Old 08-19-2015, 09:27 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Have both a 6k rpm drill and a 2,600 rpm one. Both work well and are virtually interchangable.

They would be completely interchangabe except one is reversible.

Dave
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2015, 11:13 AM
atalla atalla is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
Have both a 6k rpm drill and a 2,600 rpm one. Both work well and are virtually interchangable.

They would be completely interchangabe except one is reversible.

Dave
Awesome. Just what I needed to hear :D
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  #14  
Old 08-19-2015, 12:30 PM
sjhurlbut sjhurlbut is offline
 
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You can build the entire airplane with a hand cordless drill.

For thicker pieces air drill is better.

Don't over think these types of things. Use a sharp bit and get movin'.
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  #15  
Old 08-19-2015, 12:43 PM
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IMO it's not the speed but the size and weight that's more important. The air drills are compact and light weight compared their electric counterparts. I used an air drill, corded electric, and battery electric about equally through the build. Started with air in the basement, switched to corded electric when I moved up to the garage and couldn't run a compressor because the outlets wouldn't support it, and switched to a battery when I moved to the hangar more because my corded drill gave up the ghost around the same time. In the end, as other have stated, all will do the job just fine.
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  #16  
Old 08-19-2015, 12:51 PM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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I started out with a cordless Ryobi, bought a Northern Tool air drill that only does about 1800-2000 RPM, then later on bought a 3600 RM Sioux. The cordless works fine, although at 4# it will tire your wrist out more quickly. The Northern Tool air drill is "just OK", a little noisy, but it was cheap. The Sioux is the lightest, the smallest and the nicest one to use. It's also the most expensive by quite a margin, and the only one of the three that had to spend over two months in the repair shop to replace defective internal parts. I was very happy to get it back, though. I haven't used the cheap air drill since I got the Sioux, but I still use the cordless for some jobs.

In short -- use whatever you have, they all turn drill bits and reamers.
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  #17  
Old 08-19-2015, 01:46 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yen View Post
The quoted speeds are just about max speed for drills. There is no need to run anywhere near max speed and the drills will last longer at slower speeds, especially if you use a bit of lubricant.
If I'm not mistaken, those high speeds are to allow high feed rates (automated, powered feeds) in a production environment.

In sheet metal, I can't get the bit started accurately & up to speed before the hole is finished, so 6000 rpm has never been a real need for me. :-)
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  #18  
Old 08-20-2015, 09:01 AM
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flion flion is online now
 
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As somebody pointed out, those speeds matter most for thicker parts - which you will probably do in a drill press. For pre-punched sheet, the quality of the bit matters more. I buy #30 and #40 bits by the dozen. I forget where I saw it, but there was a description of the proper way to sharpen bits for quality work: "Cup the bit in your hand so the tip is resting between the middle and index fingertips and the base of the shaft is in your palm. Then, with a gentle underhand motion, pitch the bit into the trash bin."
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  #19  
Old 08-20-2015, 09:47 AM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flion View Post
I forget where I saw it, but there was a description of the proper way to sharpen bits for quality work: "Cup the bit in your hand so the tip is resting between the middle and index fingertips and the base of the shaft is in your palm. Then, with a gentle underhand motion, pitch the bit into the trash bin."
I think it was in an old issue of the RVator.
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  #20  
Old 08-20-2015, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flion View Post
As somebody pointed out, those speeds matter most for thicker parts - which you will probably do in a drill press. For pre-punched sheet, the quality of the bit matters more. I buy #30 and #40 bits by the dozen. I forget where I saw it, but there was a description of the proper way to sharpen bits for quality work: "Cup the bit in your hand so the tip is resting between the middle and index fingertips and the base of the shaft is in your palm. Then, with a gentle underhand motion, pitch the bit into the trash bin."
Love it. I remember reading a post by someone who said they built their entire plane with one or two #30 bits. I have no idea how. I buy decent quality bits but I buy then 10 at a time, and when they start feeling like they're getting dull I pitch them and move on. At less than a buck and a half each, I'm not going to mess with dull bits. Maybe you can buy $10 drill bits that will last forever, but I suspect I'd buy $10 drill bits and ruin them just as quickly as the cheap ones go bad.

For taking the undersized 3/32" and 1/8" holes up to final size, I mostly use a chucking reamer now. It takes a lot less deburring to clean the holes up.
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