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  #1  
Old 08-16-2015, 07:06 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hobbs, NM
Posts: 239
Default RV-7A Tip Up Canopy Rear Window Installation

I'm installing my canopy per the plans with screws (no Sikaflex). I'm in the process of riveting on the forward aft skin for good. I have done some searching but haven't found specifically what I am looking for. Can the rear window be installed if I rivet the forward aft skin up to the baggage bulkhead (leaving the ears on the skin free until the rear window is installed)? I clecoed the skin into place to that point and where it wraps around the rear canopy window is pretty rigid. I'm wondering if I need to rivet the skin on with the canopy generally in place just so I won't have to contort it too much in order to slide under the skin. Please share what worked for you.

Did you put anything between the canopy bow frame and the canopy as a "cushion for the rear window"? Not too sure about just screwing the canopy down direct to the bow frame.

Thanks ahead of time for your input!
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RV-7A Tip Up Airworthy on 12/20/2016
RV-10 Emp 95% complete - sold
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2015, 08:53 PM
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chrishalfman chrishalfman is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LaVista, NE
Posts: 60
Default What I did......

I had to look back at my pictures. I got the window completely fit up with clecoes on the skin and window. Trimmed, countersunk, etc, all prep completed for the window, and then riveted the entire skin on before installing the window. The only thing that wasn't in the skin were the front screws on the ears. If you can slip the window out with it clecoed together, you're probably good. I screwed mine right to the roll bar. I sealed mine in with proseal-on the front of the 'glass'-kind of in the roll bar groove, and a bead around the window/skin interface when I installed it. Lots of masking. Shot some PPG self etching primer on the inside of the glass on the rear to cover the ugliness (again-lots-o-masking) as it smeared when installed, but the window is sealed up good. Might be overkill.

As I always like to say-that's what I did, but that doesn't make it right.
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La Vista, NE
-7A, 300+ hours on the Hobbs, ECi O-360 185 hp, GA200L Whirlwind prop
Anything I post on here may not be the best way, the right way, the only way, or even an accepted way to do something, but it's how I did it. Use the information accordingly.

Last edited by chrishalfman : 08-16-2015 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Added roll bar and proseal note.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2015, 06:10 AM
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robertahegy robertahegy is offline
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Location: East Troy, WI
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Default

I test fitted the aft canopy section and then removed it for painting. Just leave the ears by the roll bar loose until the window is re-installed. I tapped holes in the roll bar for the screws and used the "P" seal flat edge trapped under the window edge as a cushion and the bulb part as a seal for the canopy.

I never used any sealant on the aft window section and never had a leak. I used no targa strip either. I think it look's cool without it.

Roberta
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Built/Flew an RV-7A
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Ford Expedition and TRICE "Q"
Built Glen L "ZIP" Classic Outboard Runabout and Super Spartan Hydroplane
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  #4  
Old 08-17-2015, 04:47 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
 
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Location: Hobbs, NM
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Hi Roberta,

Does the front tip up canopy lay down nicely with that rubber seal you're using between it and the rear Window?
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RV-7A Tip Up Airworthy on 12/20/2016
RV-10 Emp 95% complete - sold
RV-14A Empennage Done waiting on front fuse kit to show up.
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  #5  
Old 08-17-2015, 04:48 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
 
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Do you recall much of a wrestling match to get the rear canopy in there after riveting?
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RV-7A Tip Up Airworthy on 12/20/2016
RV-10 Emp 95% complete - sold
RV-14A Empennage Done waiting on front fuse kit to show up.
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  #6  
Old 08-17-2015, 09:15 PM
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chrishalfman chrishalfman is offline
 
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Location: LaVista, NE
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Default

My biggest fight that I remember was getting the very top of the back of the window slid between the skin and channel from the roll bar. Not impossible, but pretty snug.
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Chris Halfman
La Vista, NE
-7A, 300+ hours on the Hobbs, ECi O-360 185 hp, GA200L Whirlwind prop
Anything I post on here may not be the best way, the right way, the only way, or even an accepted way to do something, but it's how I did it. Use the information accordingly.
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  #7  
Old 08-17-2015, 09:33 PM
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jmjula jmjula is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 180
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I just installed mine, and after all the riveting. As mentioned by others, the only part that took effort was getting it started above roll bar support channel, just wedged it in with ~20-30 degrees tilt to start. The rest was easy.
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  #8  
Old 08-18-2015, 06:22 AM
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robertahegy robertahegy is offline
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The P seal used was very small and thin and did not interfere with the canopy closing and alignment. Installation was like the others. Wedge it in carefully in the aft by the support and pull the skin ears on the front end and it will rest in place.

Roberta
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Roberta Hegy
Built/Flew an RV-7A
Air Troy Estates, East Troy, WI
Ford Expedition and TRICE "Q"
Built Glen L "ZIP" Classic Outboard Runabout and Super Spartan Hydroplane
Glen L Torpedo
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  #9  
Old 08-18-2015, 09:23 PM
drone_pilot drone_pilot is offline
 
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Location: Hobbs, NM
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You wouldn't have a part number handy for the P seal would you?
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Ben

RV-7A Tip Up Airworthy on 12/20/2016
RV-10 Emp 95% complete - sold
RV-14A Empennage Done waiting on front fuse kit to show up.
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  #10  
Old 08-19-2015, 05:48 AM
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robertahegy robertahegy is offline
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I bought it from Aircraft Spruce back in about 2003-2004. I don't see it in the catalog anymore. It was white and about 1/2" wide with a 1/4" bulb. I don't have the part number anymore.

Roberta
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Built/Flew an RV-7A
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Ford Expedition and TRICE "Q"
Built Glen L "ZIP" Classic Outboard Runabout and Super Spartan Hydroplane
Glen L Torpedo
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