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Which cordless drill

Neither! Try a ratcheting screw driver, you will mess up lots of screws using a cordless drill. I never use power tools to remove or install anything on light aircraft. Get a small tube of Boelube and put a dab on the threads of each screw, they will go in like butter and won't strip the threads off the first time they are installed into a new nutplate.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sna...X&ved=0CAgQ_AVqFQoTCP_qisDrlMcCFUrOgAod5PsPdw

https://www.google.com/search?q=boe.....1ac.1.34.heirloom-serp..1.6.530.EcnfMTL5qdQ
 
my experience

ok, so I'm not a builder, just put 1,000's of screws in and out at annual etc.

when I was a kid, I removed the zillion screws from the typical Cessna's required at annual and other maintenance. Sometimes they would be frozen, underwing, and otherwise a real bear to remove.
in ONLY this instance, I would endorse an impact driver to remove them.

I've used a small 12v dewalt drill to remove and drive screws during maintenance of my RV, and as long as you turn the clutch down, so that it slips before you strip the screw head, and tighten the last few turns with a hand screwdriver, I can't see the problem with this.
If you overdrive and warp skins and strip nutplates, well, you'll learn your lesson pretty quickly!!!!

although kind of slow, I don't see why a good cordless screwdriver wouldn't take care of 90% of the tasks around the shop.
screwdriver_zps5572n6qm.jpg

you don't really need the speed or weight and force of a big drill in most cases...and these little angle babies fit in places even a hand screwdriver won't!
 
Cordless drill -- driver or impact driver drill? Which is best for installing removing screws?

TIA

My .02..

For tough, seized screws, the impact driver would probably work better for removal. I would not use it for installation.

Several of these are in hangars around my airport. Not super fast but great torque and battery life and won't break the bank. Buy 2.
 
The lighter and smaller the better. A touch of grinding compound on the tip of the Phillips head bit helps when removing tough screws.
 
I use a Harbor Freight cordless and run the clutch down to minimum torque. Works well if you have run a tap through your nut plates first. Just ensure each has gone "home" and not stalled out before bottoming out.
 
Dittos for the power tools. There are just too many screws, multiple installs and removals for these old arms and wrists. Definitely concur with the importance of torque control.
Perhaps most important...use best quality bits. I've had good results with Snap-On Phillips and flat tip bits, their shape is less prone to strip out the screw heads.
 
I went through a handful of cordless drills before I found the Black and Decker LDX120C 20 Volt Lithium Ion drill. The drill is lightweight and the battery lasts a very long time - for my annual, I never have any fatigue in my hand and the battery lasts without needing any charging. The clutch system works flawlessly for automatically disengaging the drill once the proper torque has been achieved.

Amazon and Home Depot have it for around $55, and the reviews for the drill are in the 4.5+/5 stars range. The only regret about this drill I have is that I did not buy it during my build. I consider it my favorite tool now!

DSCN3093.JPG


Since my purchase, Black and Decker has released a version with 2 speeds - the LDX220SB model (0-400/0-1400 RPM Settings). It goes for about $70 on Amazon. I haven't found the need for multiple speed settings for the one I have.
 
I like my Milwaukee M12 Drill (not the driver linked earlier). Most drivers probably have a light, but I'd consider that mandatory after having used a drill with it. I like the battery being part of the handle, and not a large appendage to it. Those make more sense for construction type of work.

For aircraft building/maintaining, another necessary feature for any drill or driver is minimum clutch torque. The M12 drill, when set at "1" or "2" on clutch torque, is perfect for driving #8 screws. More powerful drills may have a minimum torque which is too high.

Chuck quality is another factor to consider or research.

Lots of choices...
 
I use a Harbor Freight cordless and run the clutch down to minimum torque. Works well if you have run a tap through your nut plates first. Just ensure each has gone "home" and not stalled out before bottoming out.

Use Boelube on the nutplates - works great!

Bob
 
Got a palm size cordless screwdriver. It has a gyro sensor for movement. Twist your wrist either way and that is the way it rotates. Speed sensitive too.
Has an LED light.
I only remove screws on the RV with power.
Put them back by hand. Less damage potential that way.
 
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